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Maintenance Basics intermediate 4 min read

Prodetailing Master Checklist

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Ready to take your paintwork beyond a quick wash? This checklist covers the advanced steps I use in my shop to get that deep gloss while protecting against our brutal UV and salt spray.

D"M
Dave "Davo" Mitchell Off-Road & 4WD Specialist
| Updated: 1 May 2026
What You'll Learn
Prodetailing Master Checklist

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, anyone can wash a car, but getting that glass-like finish takes a bit more effort. I've put this together for the blokes who want their daily driver looking like a show car. We're talking clay bars, decontamination, and proper protection that'll actually survive a trip to the beach or a week parked under a gum tree. Truth be told, if you skip these steps, you're just waxing over dirt.

01

The Essential Gear

What You'll Need

0/8
Iron Remover (Decon Spray) — Something like Bowden's Own Wheely Clean or CarPro IronX. Essential for coastal salt and brake dust.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — I reckon the mitts are faster, but a fine grade bar is safer for soft paint.
Clay Lubricant — Don't use just water. A dedicated lube or a very slick soapy mix prevents marring.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Wipe — A 10-15% dilution to strip old waxes. If you don't do this, the new stuff won't stick.
High-Quality Sealant or Coating — Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light is my go-to for 2026. It handles the 40 degree heat better than old-school waxes.
Dual Action (DA) Polisher — Optional, but if you're serious about removing swirls, you'll need one. Don't touch a rotary unless you want to burn through your clear coat.
At least 10 Microfibre Cloths — Fresh ones only. I once used a 'clean' rag that had a bit of red dust in it, scratched a black Commodore to buggery. Never again.
Quality Tar Remover — For those nasty bits of road melt you get in the Aussie summer.

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02

Pre-Start Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Surface Temperature Check — Is the paint cool to the touch? If it's hot, your chemicals will flash dry and leave streaks.
Shade Check — Are you under a carport or in a garage? Detailing in direct Aussie sun is a recipe for disaster.
Contamination Test — Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and run it over the paint. If it feels like sandpaper, you definitely need to clay it.
Trim Inspection — Check for faded plastics. Tape them off if you're using a machine polisher so you don't turn them white.
03

The Pro Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Chemical Decontamination

Spray iron remover on dry paint. Let it dwell for 3-5 mins (don't let it dry!) and watch it turn purple as it bleeds out the metal particles.

02

The Mechanical Clay

Lube the panel up and gently glide the clay bar across. Keep going until the 'grabbing' sound stops and it's smooth as glass.

03

Paint Inspection

Dry the car and use a bright LED torch to look for swirls or scratches. This is where you decide if you're polishing or just protecting.

04

IPA Wipe Down

Wipe every panel with your alcohol mix. This removes any leftover oils or clay lube so your sealant actually bonds to the paint.

05

Apply Protection

Apply your sealant in small sections. I usually go panel by panel. If you're using a ceramic, watch the flash times closely in this humidity.

06

Curing Time

Keep the car bone dry for at least 12-24 hours. Don't let a stray sprinkler or a sudden arvo storm ruin your hard work.

04

Final Inspection Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
High-Spot Check — Look at the paint from different angles to ensure no oily residues or dark patches are left.
Glass Clarity — Wipe the windows with a fresh cloth. Nothing ruins a detail like smeary glass.
Door Jams — Did you dry the water that hides in the hinges? It'll drip out later and leave a streak.
Tyre Shine Level — I prefer a satin finish. High gloss looks a bit cheap, but hey, each to their own.

Watch Out

Check your weather app! If there's a dust storm forecast or high humidity, wait a day. I've seen guys apply ceramic coatings in 90% humidity and the stuff turned into a sticky mess that had to be sanded off. Also, if a bird drops a bomb on your fresh work, get it off immediately, that Aussie sun cooks the acid into your clear coat in minutes.

Detailer's Advice

Honestly, don't bother with those 'all-in-one' retail waxes from the servo. They're mostly fillers. If you want real protection against our UV, spend the extra fifty bucks on a decent ceramic sealant. Your missus will thank you when the car stays clean for three weeks instead of three days.

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