What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all been there. You get home from a week at Fraser or a trek through the Red Centre, and the last thing you want to do is pick up a hose. Thing is, if you let that salt and dust sit, you're basically inviting rust to move in. This guide covers my personal routine for getting a filthy 4x4 back to showroom (or at least driveway) quality. I'll show you the spots most people miss and the gear I reckon actually works.
The Post-Trip Cleanup
The Right Gear for the Job
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Watch Out
Before You Start Scrubbing
Cool her down
Don't go spraying cold water on a boiling hot engine or brake rotors. Give it 20 minutes to settle while you set up your gear.
Open everything up
Open the doors, tailgate, and bonnet. Take out the floor mats and give them a shake. If you've been in the dust, it's already inside anyway.
Dry vacuum first
Before you get anything wet, vacuum the interior. If you spill water on red dust, it turns into mud and then you're stuffed.
The Full Post-Trip Washdown
The Heavy Underbody Rinse
Start from the bottom. Spend a good 15-20 minutes just flushing the chassis rails. If you've been on the beach, this is the most important step. Use an underbody attachment if you have one. Keep going until the water runs clear.
Wheel Arches and Tyres
Get right up into the arches. Mud hides on top of the fuel tank and inside the chassis holes. Use a degreaser on the tyres to get that brown 'blooming' off the rubber.
Engine Bay Blow-out
I don't reckon you should douse your engine in water. Use a damp cloth and some APC (All Purpose Cleaner). If it's really dusty, use a leaf blower or compressed air to get the dry stuff out first.
Snow Foam Pre-Wash
Cover the whole car in a thick layer of foam. Let it dwell for 5-8 mins, but don't let it dry. This softens the bugs and bird droppings. Most people skip this, but it's why their paint looks scratched after 2 years.
The Pressure Rinse
Blast off the foam. You're trying to get 90% of the dirt off before you ever touch the car with a mitt. Trust me, if you go straight to scrubbing, that red dust acts like sandpaper.
Two-Bucket Contact Wash
Use a quality wash like Meguiar's Gold Class. Wash from the top down. Do one panel, then rinse your mitt in the 'rinse' bucket before going back for more soap.
Door Jams and Seals
Use a soft brush and some soapy water to clean the door shuts. Red dust loves to live in the rubber seals. If you don't clean them, they'll squeak and eventually perish.
The Final Rinse
Flood the panels with a low-pressure hose (no nozzle) to help the water sheet off. It makes drying heaps easier.
Dry the Rig
Use your big microfibre towel. Pat it dry rather than dragging it if you're worried about scratches. Make sure you get the water out of the wing mirrors so it doesn't drip later.
Glass and Mirrors
Clean the inside and outside of the windscreen. Use a dedicated glass cleaner. After a dusty trip, you'll be amazed how much grime is on the inside from the air con.
The CT18 Secret
Protection for the Next Adventure
Common Questions
Can I just use the local touchless car wash?
How do I get the red dust out of white paint?
Is it worth getting an underbody rust proofing?
My seatbelts are crunchy with dust, what do I do?
One Last Thing
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