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Paint Decontamination Checklist

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

If your paint feels like sandpaper after a summer of bug guts and red dust, it's time for a proper decon. Here is the exact checklist I use to get paint smooth as glass before hitting it with protection.

B"W
Barry "Bazza" Williams Product Reviewer
| Updated: 5 March 2026
What You'll Learn
Paint Decontamination Checklist

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, if you're just washing your car and thinking that's enough, you're missing the microscopic grit that kills your shine. Between the bat droppings in the suburbs and the salt spray on the coast, Aussie paint takes a beating. I've put together this quick checklist so you can strip the nasties without messing up your clear coat. It's the same process I use for my mobile clients.

01

The Gear You Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/8
Iron Fallout Remover — Get something like Bowden's Own Wheely Clean or Gtechniq W6. Essential for brake dust and rail grit.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — I reckon the mitts are faster, but a fine grade clay bar is safer if you're a beginner.
Clay Lubricant — Don't use plain water. Use a dedicated lube or a very soapy wash mitt (I usually just use more car shampoo).
Tar and Sap Remover — Crucial if you park under gum trees. Citrus-based ones work a treat.
Two Buckets with Grit Guards — Don't skip the guards. I learned that the hard way on a black Commodore once, swirl city.
Quality Microfibre Towels — At least 3-4 plush ones for drying and wiping off chemical residue.
Pressure Washer or Hose — A pressure washer is better for blasting out that red outback dust from the crevices.
pH Neutral Car Wash — Something decent like Meguiar's Gold Class. Nothing fancy, just needs to be slippery.

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02

Pre-Start Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Is the paint cool to the touch? — If it's been sitting in the 40-degree sun, forget it. You'll bake the chemicals onto the clear coat.
Are you in the shade? — Decon chemicals dry way too fast in direct UV. Find a carport or wait until the arvo.
Is the car already 'clean'? — Give it a standard wash first. You don't want to be claying over loose dirt and scratching the life out of it.
Check for bat poo/bird bombs — Soak these first. Don't try to clay them off dry or you'll regret it.
03

The Decon Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Chemical Iron Removal

Spray the fallout remover on dry paint. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes until it turns purple, but don't let it dry. Rinse thoroughly.

02

Tar and Sap Spot Clean

Dab your tar remover on any stubborn black spots or sticky sap. Give it a minute, then wipe gently with a microfibre. Rinse again.

03

The Clay Stage

Work one panel at a time. Use plenty of lube and glide the clay over the paint with zero pressure. When it stops grabbing, it's clean.

04

Final Wash and Rinse

Give the whole car a quick soapy wash to remove any leftover lube or chemicals. Rinse it off like you mean it.

05

Dry the Vehicle

Use a clean, plush drying towel. I like to use a bit of detailer spray as a drying aid to prevent any marring.

A Quick Real-World Tip

A mate of mine once dropped his clay bar on the driveway and kept using it. Don't do that. If it touches the ground, it's bin material. It'll pick up tiny stones that'll sand-blast your paint. (Truth be told, I've done it too, and the missus still hasn't let me forget the scratches on her SUV).
04

Final Inspection Checklist

What You'll Need

0/3
The Plastic Bag Test — Put your hand in a sandwich bag and run it over the paint. If it feels bumpy, you missed a spot.
Check the nooks and crannies — Look for white clay residue or purple streaks in the door seals and around badges.
Visual check for 'marring' — If you see slight dullness from the clay, don't panic. A light polish will fix it right up.

Watch Out

Never use iron removers on raw aluminium or cheap aftermarket wheel finishes; they can stain. Also, iron removers smell like rotten eggs, don't do this inside a closed garage unless you want a massive headache.

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Related Topics

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