Paint Correction and Machine Polishing for the Australian Climate

Strip everything. Use a high-pH soap or even a bit of dish soap (just this once!) to get rid of old waxes. Pay attention to the wheel arches and door jambs where that red dust hides.

Spray a fallout remover (the stuff that turns purple). This is huge if you live near a railway or an industrial area. It dissolves metal particles that polish alone won't move.

Lube up the panel and run the clay over it. If the paint feels like sandpaper, you aren't done yet. It should feel smooth as glass before the machine touches it.

Use a blower or a big drying towel. Water dripping out of a mirror housing halfway through polishing is a nightmare, it makes the polish splatter and ruins the cycle.

Tape up the black plastics, rubber seals, and badges. Trust me, I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, spent three hours with a toothbrush trying to get polish out of the window seals. Never again.

Never, ever polish in direct Aussie sun. The panel will be too hot, the polish will flash instantly, and you'll have a bad time. Early morning or a cool garage is the go.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to your pad. Rub it in with your finger to ensure the foam is evenly covered. This prevents 'dry buffing'.

Pick a small area, roughly 50cm x 50cm. Don't try to do the whole bonnet at once. You'll lose track of where you've been.

With the machine OFF, dab the pad around your section to spread the product. This stops it from flinging everywhere when you pull the trigger.

Start the machine on a low speed (1 or 2) to spread it evenly. Then crank it up to speed 4 or 5 for the actual correction work.

Move the machine slowly, about 2-3cm per second. Let the machine do the work. Use light pressure, just enough to guide it, but don't stall the rotation.

Go left-to-right, then up-and-down. Overlap each pass by 50%. This ensures you don't miss any spots.

Work it until it turns translucent (clear). This usually takes 4-6 passes. If it starts to dust or disappear, stop immediately.

Use a clean microfibre to buff away the residue. Spray your IPA/Panel Wipe to remove the oils so you can see the true state of the paint.

Check the results with your LED light. Are the swirls gone? If yes, move on. If not, you might need a second set of passes or a heavier pad/liquid combo.

After every section, use your brush to flick out the spent polish. A dirty pad won't cut and just generates heat.

Once the whole car is compounded, switch to your finishing pad and polish. This uses the same technique but with less pressure and faster arm movement to bring out the depth.