What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you're serious about keeping your rig looking decent in the Aussie sun, a basic wash isn't going to cut it. This guide is all about deep cleaning your paint to get rid of the stuff a sponge won't touch. We are talking iron fallout, tree sap, and that lovely red dust that gets into every pore of the paint. It's for the bloke who wants his car to actually shine and his wax or coating to actually stick.
Why Your Car Feels Like a Grater
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
Preparation: Don't Rush This
Find some shade
Never, ever do this in direct Aussie sun. The chemicals will dry on the paint and cause more damage than you started with. Wait for the arvo or do it under a carport.
Wheel and Arch Deep Clean
Always start with the wheels. Use your iron remover and a brush. If you do the wheels last, you'll splash dirt back onto your clean paint.
The Big Rinse
Blat the whole car with water. Get as much loose dirt, sand, and salt off as possible. Pay extra attention to the door sills and wheel arches.
Snow Foam Soak
If you've got a foam cannon, use it now. Let it dwell for 5 minutes (don't let it dry!) to encapsulate the grit.
The Contact Wash
Use the two-bucket method. Wash from the top down. Rinse your mitt after every panel. This ensures the surface is 'clean' before we start 'decontaminating'.
While you're here...
Pro Tip: The Baggie Test
The Main Event: Chemical and Mechanical Decon
Dry the car (mostly)
You don't want the iron remover to be diluted by too much standing water. A quick towel dry is plenty.
Apply Iron Remover
Spray the iron remover over the paint. Start with the bonnet and roof. You'll see it start to turn purple or 'bleed' as it reacts with the metal particles.
Wait and Watch
Let it sit for 3-5 minutes. Don't let it dry! If it's a hot day, you might need to mist it with a bit of water to keep it active.
Agitate (Optional)
On really bad areas, I use a damp microfibre to gently spread the product around. It helps it work deeper.
Thorough Rinse
Rinse the car until the water runs clear. Make sure you get it out of the cracks around the lights and badges.
Tar Removal
Check the lower panels behind the wheels. If you see black spots, spray your tar remover. Let it sit for a minute, then wipe away with a sacrificial microfibre.
Rinse Again
Get those chemicals off! You want a clean, wet surface for the claying stage.
Lubricate the Panel
Pick a panel (start with the roof). Spray plenty of clay lube. You can't use too much lube, honestly.
The Claying Motion
Gently glide the clay bar or mitt over the surface using back-and-forth motions. No heavy pressure! Let the clay do the work.
Listen to the Paint
You'll hear the clay 'scratching' at first. When the noise stops and it glides silently, that section is clean.
Check the Clay
If using a bar, fold it frequently to expose a clean surface. If it looks brown or grey, it's full of junk.
Wipe and Inspect
Wipe the panel dry and do the baggie test again. It should be smooth as silk.
Repeat Everywhere
Do the glass too! Claying your windscreen makes your wipers work effortlessly. Avoid textured plastic trim though.
Final WashDOWN
Once the whole car is clayed, give it one last quick wash with your mitt to remove any lube residue.
Final Rinse and Dry
Dry the car thoroughly using your big drying towel. Use a leaf blower if you've got one to get water out of the mirrors.
Watch Out
My Thoughts on Clay Mitts vs Bars
Advanced Techniques: For the Perfectionists
The Aftercare: Don't Leave it Naked
What to Buy (And What to Avoid)
Common Questions from the Shed
How often should I do this?
Will claying remove my scratches?
Can I use dish soap to strip wax?
Does my brand new car need this?
Is the purple stuff (iron remover) dangerous?
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