What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you've been out past the black stump or even just parked under a gum tree for a week, your paint is probably copping a beating. This guide is all about deep cleaning your paintwork to get rid of the stuff that's literally stuck inside it. It's for anyone who wants their rig to actually shine and stay protected against the Aussie sun. We're talking iron fallout, stubborn red dirt, and that lovely bat spray we all know and love.
Why Bother with Decon?
The Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Scene
Find some shade
I cannot stress this enough. Do not do this in the direct Aussie sun. If the panels are hot to the touch, you're going to have a bad time. The chemicals will dry too fast and leave stains that are a nightmare to get off. Wait until the arvo or do it under a carport.
Cool the panels down
Give the whole car a good soak with the hose. This lowers the surface temp and knocks off the loose 'easy' dirt before you start scrubbing.
Wheel Check
Clean your wheels first. They're usually the filthiest part, and you don't want wheel grime splashing onto your clean paint later.
The Step-by-Step Decon Process
The Initial Wash
Wash the car using the two-bucket method. This gets rid of the 'top layer' of filth. Don't worry about being perfect yet, we're just clearing the way for the chemicals.
Chemical Iron Removal
Dry the car slightly so the product doesn't just run off. Spray your iron remover over the paint. You'll see it turn purple as it reacts with the metal bits. Leave it for 3-5 minutes, but don't let it dry! If it's a hot day, do one panel at a time.
The Big Rinse
Blast that purple stuff off with a high-pressure hose. Make sure you get it out of the cracks and window seals. This is getting rid of the stuff that's 'melted' off the surface.
Tar and Sap Spot Clean
Check for black dots (tar) or sticky yellow lumps (sap). Dab some tar remover on a cloth and gently wipe them away. Don't scrub hard, let the chemical do the heavy lifting.
Lubricate for Claying
Now the fun part. Spray your clay lube generously over a small section (say, half the bonnet). You want it slippery as a greased pig.
The Clay Process
Gently glide the clay bar or mitt over the surface. Use almost zero pressure. You'll hear a 'scritch-scritch' sound, that's the clay grabbing the contaminants. Keep going until the sound stops and it glides silently.
Check your Clay
If using a bar, fold it frequently to reveal a clean surface. If using a mitt, rinse it in your bucket often. I once had a customer bring in a white Hilux that had been near a mine site, the clay turned red in about two seconds. If it's that dirty, clean it more often.
Final Wash
After you've done the whole car, give it one last quick wash with your soapy mitt. This removes any leftover clay lube or residue.
Dry it Properly
Use your big microfibre towel to pat the car dry. Don't drag it too hard. At this point, the paint should feel like smooth glass.
Watch Out
The Baggie Test
Drop it and Lose it
Closing the Deal: Aftercare
Common Questions from the Shed
How often should I do this?
Will claying remove my scratches?
Can I use dish soap for the wash?
My iron remover didn't turn purple, is it broken?
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