What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all been there. You spend two hours on a Saturday giving the rig a scrub, but when you run your hand over the bonnet, it still feels rough as guts. In Australia, our cars take an absolute beating from the UV, coastal salt, and that bloody red outback dust that gets into everything. This guide is for anyone who wants to actually get their paint smooth again before putting on a wax or ceramic coating. I'll walk you through the gear you need and the mistakes I've seen blokes make a thousand times.
Why Washing Isn't Enough
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
Get out of the sun
I cannot stress this enough. If the panels are hot to the touch, stop. Move the car under a carport or wait until the arvo. Chemicals will dry instantly on hot paint and leave stains that are a nightmare to get off. (Learned that lesson the expensive way on a black Commodore, never again).
The Deep Clean
Give the car a thorough wash. Use the two-bucket method and get all the loose dirt and grit off. Pay extra attention to the wheel arches and door sills where the red dust loves to hide.
Dry (or don't)
If you're using a chemical iron remover, I prefer to dry the car slightly so the product doesn't get diluted by standing water. If it's a humid day, a quick pat down with a towel is fine.
The Decon Process
Iron Decontamination
Spray your iron remover over the paintwork. You'll see it start to turn purple, that's the chemical reacting with the metal particles. Leave it for 3-5 minutes, but don't let it dry! If it's a windy day, keep an eye on it.
Rinse Thoroughly
Blast the iron remover off with plenty of water. You'll see purple streaks running down the driveway. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear.
Tar and Sap Spot Treatment
Check the lower panels and the bonnet for black tar spots or sticky sap. Apply your tar remover to a cloth, hold it against the spot for 30 seconds, and gently wipe. Don't scrub like you're sanding a deck, let the chemical do the work.
Lubricate the Panel
Now for the mechanical decon. Spray your clay lubricant generously over a small section (about 50cm x 50cm).
Clay Bar Technique
Glide the clay bar or mitt over the lubricated area using light finger pressure. You'll hear it 'singing' at first, that's the sound of it hitting the grit. When it goes silent and smooth, the section is done.
Knead the Clay
If you're using a traditional clay bar, fold it frequently to reveal a fresh surface. If you drop it on the ground, chuck it in the bin immediately. (Seriously, don't be tight, one piece of gravel in that clay will ruin your paint).
Work Section by Section
Work from the top down. Roof first, then bonnet, then sides. Leave the bottom of the doors and the rear bumper for last, as they are always the filthiest.
Final Rinse
Once the whole car feels like glass, give it one last wash with your soapy bucket to remove any clay residue and lube.
Dry Properly
Use a clean, large microfibre drying towel. I reckon the 'twist loop' style towels are the best for soaking up water without leaving streaks.
Watch Out
Pro Tips from the Trade
Protecting the Work
Common Questions
How often should I do this?
Will a clay bar remove scratches?
Can I use dish soap to strip the old wax?
What if I drop my clay mitt?
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