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Car Washing & Drying beginner 4 min read

Keeping Your Ceramic Coating Mint

Factory paint is thinner than ever. Without proper protection, Australian sun and salt will have your clear coat peeling within years.

Don't let that expensive coating go to waste. Here is the exact checklist I use to keep my customers' cars beaded up and protected against the Aussie sun and salt.

Keeping Your Ceramic Coating Mint

Aussie Conditions

Our intense UV breaks down waxes faster than overseas. Ceramic coatings last longer, but even they need topped up more frequently here.
Quick Summary

Look, I've seen too many blokes spend two grand on a professional coating only to ruin it by using harsh dish soap or taking it through a scratchy auto-wash. Truth is, ceramic isn't bulletproof, especially with our brutal UV and those nasty bat droppings that'll eat through anything. This checklist is your no-BS guide to maintaining that finish properly at home.

01

The Essential Gear

What You'll Need

0/8
Two 15L wash buckets — Get ones with grit guards. Honestly, the cheap ones from the hardware store are fine as long as the guards fit.
pH Neutral Car Soap — My go-to is Bowden's Own Nanolicious Wash. It plays nice with coatings and doesn't leave junk behind.
Microfibre Wash Mitt — Throw away those old sponges. I learned the hard way on a black Commodore that sponges are just scratch-factories.
Snow Foam Cannon — Optional but highly recommended to lift that abrasive red dust before you touch the paint.
Dedicated Wheel Bucket & Brush — Never mix your wheel gear with your paint gear. Total rookie mistake.
Large Twisted Loop Drying Towel — Something like the Big Green Sucker. Way better than a chamois for coated cars.
Ceramic Topper / Si02 Detailer — Gtechniq C2 or Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer. Use this every 3-4 months to boost the beads.
Iron Remover — Essential if you live near a train line or heavy industry. Autoglym Magma is a solid choice.
02

Pre-Start Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Is the paint cool to the touch? — If you've been parked in the sun, she'll be too hot. Move it to the shade or wait for the arvo.
Are there bird or bat droppings? — Spot clean these first with plenty of lube. Don't scrub dry, I've seen bat 'presents' etch through clear coat in hours.
Check for heavy red dust or mud — If you've just come back from a trip, you'll need a way longer rinse than usual.
Is your wash mitt clean? — Check for any trapped grit from the last wash. Give it a good flick.
03

The Maintenance Wash Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Wheels First

Always do the wheels while the rest of the car is dry. It prevents water spots on the paint while you're busy scrubbing the rims.

02

The Deep Rinse

Blast as much grit as possible off. If you've got a pressure washer, use it. Focus on the wheel arches and lower sills where the road salt hides.

03

Snow Foam (The 'Insurance' Step)

Chuck some foam on and let it dwell for 5 minutes. It softens the dirt so it slides right off. Don't let it dry on the paint though!

04

Two-Bucket Wash

Wash one panel at a time from top to bottom. Rinse your mitt in the 'rinse' bucket after every panel to keep it clean. No dramas.

05

Chemical Decon (Every 6 months)

If the water isn't beading like it used to, spray an iron remover on the clean, wet paint. It dissolves the 'clogging' particles that kill the hydrophobic effect.

06

The Final Rinse

Flood the panels with a low-pressure hose. If the coating is healthy, the water should literally jump off the car.

07

Dry and Top

Pat dry with your microfibre towel. Once dry, mist your ceramic topper on one panel at a time and buff off. Your mate will reckon it looks brand new.

04

Final Inspection Checklist

What You'll Need

0/3
Check the 'Sill Test' — Run a finger (gently!) along the lower doors. Should feel smooth as glass. If it's gritty, you need a decon wash.
Inspect the glass — Ensure no streaks from the ceramic topper. Use a fresh cloth if you see any.
Beading check — Mist a bit of water. If it doesn't form tight, round beads, your topper didn't bond or the coating needs a deeper clean.

Watch Out

Never use 'Wash and Wax' soaps. The wax in them is cheap and actually clogs the ceramic coating, making it look dull and stop beading. Also, avoid those 'brush' washes at the servo, they'll mar your coating in one go, and fixing that usually requires a full machine polish.
05

Common Questions

Can I use a clay bar on my coating?
I wouldn't bother unless you absolutely have to. Clay is abrasive and can thin out the coating. Stick to chemical removers first.
How often should I do this?
Give it a basic wash every fortnight. Do the 'topper' and deep clean every few months or after a big road trip.

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