What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, you've just spent a small fortune on a new car, so the last thing you want is some teenager at the dealership scrubbing it with a dirty sponge. This guide is for anyone who wants to do it right the first time. I'll walk you through the gear you actually need and the steps to get that paint sealed up against our brutal UV rays and salt air. It's not rocket science, but there are a few tricks to keeping it looking showroom-fresh for years.
Welcome to the Club
The Gear You'll Actually Use
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting Yourself Up for Success
Find some shade
Never wash a car in direct Aussie sunlight. March can still hit 35 degrees easily. If the metal is hot to the touch, the soap will dry and leave spots before you can rinse it. If you've got no shade, do it at first light or after the sun goes down.
Wheel prep first
Always start with the wheels. They're usually the filthiest part. If you do them last, you'll splash brake dust and grime onto your clean paint. Use a separate bucket for your wheel brushes too.
The Two-Bucket Setup
Fill one bucket with soapy water and the other with plain water. This plain water is your 'rinse' bucket. Every time you wipe the car, rinse the mitt in the plain water first to drop the dirt before going back into the soap.
The First Wash Process
Deep Clean the Wheels
Spray your wheel cleaner on cool rims. Let it dwell for a minute but don't let it dry. Use your brush to get into the barrels and around the nuts. Rinse 'em off thoroughly.
Initial Pressure Rinse
Give the whole car a good blast with water. You want to knock off all the loose grit, especially if it's been sitting in a dusty holding yard. Start from the top and work down.
Snow Foam (Optional but Recommended)
If you've got a foam cannon, chuck some foam on and let it sit for 5 minutes. This softens up any bird droppings or tree sap. It's a lifesaver for prevents scratches.
The Contact Wash
Starting from the roof, gently wipe with your soapy mitt. Don't scrub, just let the weight of the mitt do the work. Use the two-bucket method I mentioned earlier.
Rinse Frequently
In our climate, I usually rinse each panel as I finish it. Don't wait until the whole car is done or you'll get water spots, especially on a black car (I made this mistake on a black Commodore once, never again).
Decontamination (The Secret Step)
Run your hand over the paint. Does it feel like sandpaper? That's industrial fallout. Use a fine clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lubricant to gently glide over the surface until it feels smooth as glass.
Final Rinse
One last rinse to make sure all the clay residue and soap is gone from the gaps in the doors and lights.
Drying
Lay your large microfibre towel across the flat surfaces and just pat it dry. For the sides, wipe gently. If you've got a leaf blower, use it to blow water out of the mirrors and badges so it doesn't drip later.
Apply Protection
Since the paint is fresh and clean, now is the time to protect it. Apply your sealant or spray ceramic. This is what stops the sun from fading your clear coat and makes the next wash ten times easier.
Glass and Tyres
Clean the glass with a dedicated glass cleaner (no ammonia if you have tint!). Put a bit of tyre shine on for that finished look. Don't go overboard or it'll flick up onto your clean paint the moment you drive off.
Watch Out
Watch Out
The 'Sheet' Rinse
Door Jams Count
Keeping the Shine Alive
Common Questions
The dealer offered me a 'LifeTime' ceramic coating for $1500. Is it worth it?
Can I use dish soap if I run out of car wash?
My car is brand new, why does it have 'rust spots' on the white paint?
How often should I wax or seal the paint?
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