How to Properly Decontaminate Your Paintwork

Seriously, do not do this in the direct sun. If the panels are hot to the touch, the chemicals will dry instantly and leave nasty streaks. Wait for the arvo or do it under a carport.

Give it a proper wash using the two-bucket method. We want to get all the loose dirt and dust off so we aren't dragging it across the paint later.

You don't need it perfect, but if it's soaking wet, it'll dilute your iron remover too much and make it less effective.

Spray your iron remover over the dry paint. You'll see it start to turn purple, that's the chemical reacting with the iron particles and dissolving them. Leave it for 3-5 minutes, but jangan let it dry!

Blast it off thoroughly with your pressure washer. You'll see purple liquid running everywhere; that's all the invisible metal grit leaving your car.

Check the lower sills and behind the wheel arches for black tar spots. Dab some tar remover on a cloth, let it sit on the spot for a minute, then wipe it away. No dramas.

Now for the mechanical decon. Spray your clay lubricant generously on a small section, say 40cm x 40cm.

Gently glide the clay bar over the lubricated area. Don't push down hard! Let the clay do the work. You'll hear it 'singing' as it picks up the grit.

After a few passes, look at the clay. If it's brown or grey, it's working. Fold the clay to a clean side and keep going.

Put your hand inside a thin plastic sandwich bag and run it over the area you just clayed. If it feels smooth as glass, you're done. If you still feel bumps, go again.

Do the whole car section by section. Don't rush it. I usually start at the top (roof/bonnet) and work down to the dirtiest parts last.

Give the car another quick wash or a very thorough rinse to get all the clay lube residue off.

Use a fresh, clean microfibre drying towel. Since the paint is now naked and clean, it's vulnerable, so be gentle.