What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, people reckon white is the 'easy' colour because it hides a bit of dust, but they're dead wrong. Truth is, white paint in our climate takes a beating from the UV and those lovely bat droppings that seem to find every clean bonnet in the street. I've put this together for anyone wanting to stop their white daily-driver from turning that sickly shade of yellow or getting peppered with those tiny orange rust spots. We're going to cover how to deep clean it and keep it protected against the Aussie sun.
The Reality of Owning a White Car in Oz
What You'll Need in Your Kit
What You'll Need
While you're here...
The Setup
Find some shade
I cannot stress this enough. If you try to do a deep clean on a white car in the 2pm sun, your chemicals will dry instantly and leave nasty streaks. Get under a carport or wait until the arvo when the sun's lower.
Wheel Check
Always start with the wheels. If you do them last, you'll splash brake dust and grime onto your clean paint. Just common sense, really.
The Pressure Rinse
Give it a proper heavy rinse. You want to knock off all that loose grit and red dust before you even think about touching the paint with a mitt.
The Deep Clean and Protect Process
The Iron Decon Phase
This is the most important step for a white car. Spray your iron remover over the dry (or slightly damp) paint. On white, you'll see it start to 'bleed' purple. That's the chemical reacting with the metal shards from brake dust and rail lines. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes, but don't let it dry!
Contact Wash
Use the two-bucket method. One bucket with your soapy suds, one with plain water to rinse your mitt. Go from the roof down. If you've got a mate helping, make sure they aren't using the bucket you just rinsed the muddy side skirts in.
The Clay Bar Session
Even after washing, the paint will probably feel like sandpaper if you run your hand over it. Use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water as lube. This pulls out the stubborn bits of tree sap and 'overland' red dust that a wash won't touch. (I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore once, didn't use enough lube and marred the hell out of it. On white, you won't see the scratches as much, but do it right anyway.)
Final Rinse and Dry
Rinse it thoroughly to get all the clay residue off. Dry it with your big microfibre towel. Open the doors and boot, white cars love to hide water in the seals that'll drip out later and leave streaks.
The IPA Wipe
Take a clean microfibre and some Isopropyl Alcohol (diluted) or a dedicated prep spray. Wipe down the panels. This removes any leftover oils or soaps so your protection actually sticks to the paint, not the dirt.
Applying the Protection
Grab your sealant or ceramic spray. If you're using something like Bowden's Bead Machine or a Gyeon product, apply it to one panel at a time. A little goes a long way. Buff it off immediately with a fresh cloth.
Detail the Trim
White paint looks 'cheap' if the black plastics are faded and grey. Hit the trim with a dedicated restorer. It makes the white pop like you wouldn't believe.
Glass and Tyres
Clean the glass last. Use a dedicated glass cleaner and two towels (one to wipe, one to buff). Put some tyre shine on, but don't go overboard, nobody likes 'tyre sling' all up the side of their freshly cleaned white doors.
Pro Tip: The Baggy Test
Watch Out
My Take on Traditional Waxes
Watch Out
Keeping it Bright
Common Questions
Why does my white car have tiny orange spots?
Can I use a 'wash and wax' from the supermarket?
How do I get red dust out of the crevices?
Does white paint really stay cooler?
My paint feels rough but it looks clean. What's up?
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