How to Detail Your Car for Sale and Get Top Dollar (Mar 2026)

Never, ever detail a car in the direct Aussie sun if you can avoid it. In March, it's still bloody hot. The water will dry on the paint before you can rinse it, leaving nasty water spots. If you don't have a carport, wait until the arvo when the sun's lower.

Empty everything out. I mean everything. Check the glovebox, the centre console, and under the seats. A buyer doesn't want to see your old Maccas receipts or a rogue sock under the passenger seat. (I once found a petrified meat pie under a seat during a pre-sale detail, not a selling point, I promise you.)

If you've just driven home, your brakes will be scorching. Spraying cold water on hot rotors can warp them. Give 'em 10-15 minutes to cool down while you set up your gear.

Spray your wheel cleaner on cool rims. Use a dedicated wheel brush to get into the barrels. If you've got built-up brake dust, you might need a second hit. Rinse thoroughly.

Give the whole car a good hose down. If you've got a foam cannon, use it. The goal is to get as much dirt off as possible before you actually touch the paint with a mitt. This is where you blast out the red dust from the door seals and fuel cap.

One bucket with soapy water, one with clean water. Dunk the mitt in the soap, wash a panel, then rinse the mitt in the clean water. Work from the roof down. This keeps your soapy water clean and prevents you from rubbing dirt back into the paint.

Run your hand over the clean, wet paint. If it feels like sandpaper, you've got bonded contaminants like fallout or sap. Use a clay bar or mitt with plenty of lubricant (soapy water works fine) to glide over the surface until it's smooth. It makes the paint pop like crazy.

Use a big microfibre drying towel. Don't use a chamois, they're old school and can actually drag tiny bits of dirt across the paint. Pat it dry or drag the towel flat across the surface.

You don't need to go nuts here, but a quick wipe down of the plastic covers with APC and a rag makes a huge difference. Buyers always pop the bonnet. If it looks clean, they reckon you've looked after the mechanicals. Just be careful with high-pressure water around the electrics.

Vacuum everything twice. Use APC and a soft brush on the plastics to get the skin oils and dust out of the grain. Don't forget the steering wheel, it's the bit the buyer touches most, and if it's sticky, they'll be put off immediately.

Clean the inside of the windscreen. This is the hardest part but the most important. Use two towels: one to wipe the cleaner, and a fresh dry one to buff away the streaks. If the sun hits a streaky window during a test drive, it looks rubbish.

Since we're selling, I wouldn't bother with a $1,000 ceramic coating. Chuck on a good quality spray sealant or a liquid wax. It'll fill minor swirls and give it that deep gloss. Gtechniq C2V3 or Bowden's Bead Machine are my go-tos for a quick, impressive finish.

Put some tyre shine on (less is more, nobody likes sling down the side of the car) and check for any missed spots or wax residue in the cracks. Open the boot and make sure the spare tyre area isn't full of sand.