What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if your headlights are looking yellow and crusty, it's usually just our brutal Aussie UV eating the factory clear coat. I've done hundreds of these, and truth be told, those 'magic' wipes you see at the servo are a waste of time. You need to sand them. This guide is for anyone who wants a result that lasts more than a week.
A Quick Reality Check
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Pre-Start Checklist
What You'll Need
The Process
Clean and Mask
Wash the lights thoroughly to remove red dust or salt. Double-tape the surrounding paintwork. I learned the hard way on a black Commodore, one slip with 800 grit and you're polishing the wing.
The Heavy Sand (800 Grit)
Keep the paper soaking wet. Sand in horizontal lines until the yellow slurry turns white. This is the 'scary' part where the lens looks completely ruined. Stick with it.
Refine the Scratches (1500 Grit)
Switch directions to vertical sanding. This helps you see when you've removed all the 800-grit marks. The lens will start to look slightly more translucent now.
Final Polish Sand (2500 Grit)
Go back to horizontal strokes. Spend plenty of time here. The smoother you get it now, the better the final clear coat will bond and shine.
Dry and Decontaminate
Dry it off completely. Wipe the lens down with Isopropyl Alcohol. It should look like a uniform, dull frosted glass. If you see shiny spots, you missed a bit.
Apply UV Protection
Spray your clear coat in thin, overlapping passes. Don't get greedy! Too much at once causes runs. Two thin coats are always better than one thick, drippy mess.
Final Inspection Checklist
What You'll Need
Watch Out
Wrap Up
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