Fixing Car Scratches Like a Pro (Mar 2026)

Wash the car thoroughly using the two-bucket method. You want every bit of road grime and salt off the surface. If it's a 4x4 that's been in the red dirt, spend extra time in the wheel arches and gaps.

Run your hand over the clean paint. Feel those little bumps? That's fallout. Use an iron remover (like Iron X) to dissolve metal particles from brake dust.

Lube up a section and glide the clay over it until it's smooth as silk. This is non-negotiable. If you polish over grit, you're basically sanding your car with rocks.

Dry the car completely using a dedicated drying towel or a blower. Use your LED light to map out where the scratches are. I often use a bit of tape nearby to mark them so I don't lose them under the garage lights.

Tape off all the black plastic trim, rubber seals, and badges. Polish will stain these white, and it's a right pain to get out later. (Learned that lesson on a mate's Range Rover, took me two hours to clean the trim alone).

Never polish a hot car or in direct sunlight. If it's a 35 degree arvo, wait until it cools down in the garage. The polish will dry out too fast otherwise.

Always start with the least aggressive combo. Pick a small 40x40cm area and try your finishing polish first. If that works, you've saved yourself a lot of paint.

Put 3-4 pea-sized drops of compound on your foam pad. Don't go overboard; you're not icing a cake.

With the machine off, dab the pad across your 40x40cm section to spread the product. This prevents it from flinging all over your garage walls when you pull the trigger.

Turn the DA on to a low setting (Speed 1 or 2) and do one quick pass to spread it evenly.

Bump the speed up to 4 or 5. Move the machine slowly, about 2-3cm per second. Let the machine do the work; don't lean on it like you're trying to crush a bug.

Go left to right, then up and down. Overlap each pass by 50% to ensure you don't miss any spots.

Touch the panel occasionally. It should be warm, but never hot. If it's getting hot, stop and let it cool. Aussie heat makes this happen faster than you'd think.

Use a fresh microfibre to wipe away the residue. Use your IPA wipe to strip the oils. This is the moment of truth, did the scratch actually go away?

If the scratch is still there, move up to your cutting compound and a firmer pad. Repeat the process.

After using a heavy compound, the paint might look a bit hazy (we call it marring). Switch to your finishing pad and polish to bring back that deep gloss.

Wipe again with IPA. Check from different angles with your light. If you're happy, move to the next section.

After every couple of sections, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out the dried polish. A clogged pad won't cut, it'll just make a mess.

Be extra careful near the edges of panels. Paint is thinnest there. I usually stop about 1cm from the edge and do those bits by hand.

Once the whole car is done, give it a final wipe with panel prep. It should look like a mirror now.

Bare paint is vulnerable paint. You MUST apply a wax, sealant, or ceramic coating immediately after. This is what protects it from the UV and bird drops.