What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, most people reckon a quick spray of Windex and a wipe with an old rag is enough for their glass, but they're dead wrong. This guide is for the bloke who wants his windscreen so clear it looks invisible and so hydrophobic that rain just flies off at 60 clicks. We're going to cover everything from stripping old waxes to ceramic coatings that'll handle the red dust and salt spray we deal with every day down here.
Why Your Windscreen Needs More Than Just a Wash
The Glass Detailing Arsenal
What You'll Need
Preparation: Setting the Stage
Work in the Shade
Never, ever do this in direct Aussie sun. The glass should be cool to the touch. If it's too hot, your products will flash off before they can actually work.
Deep Wash
Give the whole car a wash first, but pay extra attention to the glass. Use a dedicated glass cleaner and a scrub pad to get the loose 'crunchy' bits off.
Decontaminate
Use your clay bar or mitt with plenty of lubricant (soapy water is fine). You'll feel the glass go from gritty to smooth as silk. If you've been parked under gum trees, this step is non-negotiable.
Masking Off
Chuck some painter's tape over the rubber seals and plastic cowl at the bottom of the windscreen. Glass polish contains cerium oxide or other abrasives that will turn your black trim white if you're not careful.
Dry Thoroughly
Make sure there's no water hiding under the seals. A blast of compressed air or a leaf blower is great here. Water is the enemy of the bonding process.
While you're here...
The Professional Glass Treatment Process
Assess the Condition
Look for deep scratches or stone chips. If you've got a 'bullseye' chip, get it fixed before you start applying pressure with a polish.
Apply Glass Polish
Put a few pea-sized drops of glass polish onto your felt pad. You don't need heaps.
Work in Sections
Divide the windscreen into four quarters. Work one section at a time using firm, overlapping circular motions.
Pressure is Key
Glass is incredibly hard. Unlike paint, you actually need a fair bit of 'elbow grease' to remove water spots and etched mineral deposits.
Check Your Work
Wipe away the polish residue with a damp cloth and check the glass. If you still see 'ghosting' where the wipers usually sit, go again.
Final Rinse
Wash the glass one last time to ensure all abrasive particles are gone. Dry it perfectly.
The IPA Wipe (The Most Important Step)
Spray your IPA mix onto a clean microfibre and wipe the glass. This removes every last trace of polishing oil. The glass should feel 'squeaky' now.
Apply the Repellent
Apply your chosen coating to the applicator. For things like Gtechniq G1, use small circular motions to ensure total coverage.
Wait for the Flash
Most coatings need 5-10 minutes to 'bond' or haze over. Check the bottle, different brands have different cure times.
The Second Coat
For windscreens, I always recommend a second coat immediately after the first has hazed. This ensures you haven't missed a spot.
Buffing Off
Use a clean, dry microfibre to buff away the haze. Some professional coatings (like G1) can be a bit 'grabby' to remove. Use a bit of the 'residue remover' if the kit came with one.
The Side Windows
Don't forget your side mirrors and side windows! Rain repellent on side mirrors is a game changer for visibility in heavy storms.
Wiper Blade Prep
Clean your wiper blades with the IPA wipe. You'll be shocked at the black gunk that comes off them.
Final Inspection
Use a torch (or your phone light) to check for high spots or streaks. Catch them now before the coating fully cures.
The 'Surgical' Polish Secret
Watch Out
Life After the Treatment
Advanced Technique: Machine Polishing Glass
What Product Should You Buy?
Common Glass Questions
Why do my wipers chatter after applying a repellent?
Can I use this on my tinted windows?
Will this stop my windscreen from fogging up?
Is it safe for rain sensors?
Do I need to do this to a brand new car?
Watch Out
Final Thoughts
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