What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all seen it, that once-black plastic trim on the wipers or the wheel arches that's turned a nasty shade of chalky grey. Living in Oz, the UV just nukes the oils right out of the plastic. This guide is all about restoring that 'new car' look and, more importantly, keeping it that way. I'll walk you through what actually works and what's just a waste of your Saturday arvo.
The Reality of Aussie Plastic
What You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Prep is Everything
Deep Clean
Give the car a proper wash first. Don't just do the trim; you don't want dirt from the door panels falling onto your fresh work. Use a pressure washer to blast out any red dust hiding in the gaps.
Decontaminate the Grain
Spray your APC directly onto the plastic. Use your stiff brush to scrub in circular motions. You'll see the lather turn brown, that's years of road grime and old silicones coming out. Rinse it thoroughly.
Dry and Mask
The plastic must be 100% dry. I usually grab the leaf blower to get water out from behind the trim. Once dry, tape off any paint or glass edges. (I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, if you get permanent trim restorer on the paint, it's a mission to get off).
The Restoration Process
The Final Wipe
Wipe the trim down with Isopropyl Alcohol. This removes any leftover cleaner residue and ensures the pores of the plastic are open and ready to soak up the restorer.
Product Choice
Decide if you're using a 'dye' based restorer or a ceramic-based one. For long-term Aussie conditions, I reckon ceramic-based (like Gtechniq C4) is the only way to go. It's more expensive, but it lasts a year or more instead of two weeks.
Apply to Applicator
Put a few drops (don't drench it) onto your microfibre applicator pad. A little goes a long way.
Work in Small Sections
Start with a small area, maybe 30cm at a time. Work the product into the plastic using overlapping circular motions to ensure it gets into the texture.
Level it Out
After about 30-60 seconds, use a clean microfibre towel to lightly wipe over the area. This removes any excess and prevents a 'streaky' or overly oily look.
Check for High Spots
Look at the trim from different angles. If it looks darker in some spots than others, apply a tiny bit more and buff again immediately.
Handle the 'Grey' Spots
If a spot is particularly sun-damaged, it might soak up the product instantly. Give those bits a second coat after 10 minutes.
Don't Forget the Scuttle
The plastic panel under your wipers is usually the worst hit. Take your time here, but watch you don't get product on the rubber seals of the windscreen.
Cure Time
This is the most important bit. Most restorers need at least 12 hours to cure. If it rains or you go through a puddle 2 hours later, you've wasted your time. Keep it in the garage or under a carport.
Remove the Tape
Pull the painter's tape off at a 45-degree angle. It's incredibly satisfying to see that crisp line between the restored plastic and the paint.
Watch Out
The Magic Eraser Trap
Watch Out
Keeping it Black
Peanut Butter? Don't Bother
Common Questions
Can I use a heat gun to bring back the black?
What if I get restorer on my paint?
How long will a ceramic trim coating last?
Can I use this on the interior plastic?
Is it worth doing on a brand new car?
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