Ultimate Show Car Paint Decontamination and Preparation Guide

In an Australian summer, panels can reach 70°C. Use an infrared thermometer to ensure the surface is below 30°C. Never apply chemicals to a hot panel as they will flash-dry, causing permanent chemical etching. Move the vehicle into a shaded, well-ventilated garage at least 2 hours prior to starting.

Adjust your snow foam and APC (All Purpose Cleaner) ratios for the heat. For a show prep, use a slightly stronger 1:9 ratio for snow foam to ensure maximum dwell time and lubrication. Pre-mix all solutions using distilled water to prevent mineral interference.

Using a Paint Depth Gauge (PDG), take 3-5 readings per panel. Australian-delivered vehicles often have thinner clear coats (especially Japanese imports). Documenting these levels ensures you know how much room you have for mechanical decontamination and subsequent polishing.

Identify porous plastics, rubber seals, and badges. Use high-quality automotive masking tape (like 3M Precision Masking Tape) to cover these areas. This prevents white staining from decontamination chemicals and protects delicate trim from the clay bar process.

Always start with wheels to prevent splashing brake dust onto clean paint. Apply an iron remover to cool, dry wheels. Agitate with a soft boar's hair brush, paying attention to the barrels and calipers. Rinse thoroughly with high-pressure water (approx. 1500-2000 PSI) until the water runs clear of purple tint.

Apply a high-cling snow foam to a dry vehicle. In Summer, work one side at a time if necessary. Let it dwell for 4-6 minutes. The foam encapsulates red dust and grit, pulling it off the surface via gravity. Do not let it dry; if it begins to evaporate, mist lightly with water.

Rinse from the top down using a 40-degree nozzle tip. Focus on window seals, door jambs, and fuel flaps where red dust accumulates. Use an angled wand to flush out the wheel arches and underbody, especially if the vehicle has been near coastal salt spray.

Use the 'Two-Bucket Method' with a high-quality microfibre wash mitt. Wash one panel at a time using straight, longitudinal strokes (no circles). Rinse the mitt in the 'Rinse' bucket after every panel to ensure no grit is reintroduced to the paint.

Apply an iron fallout remover to the wet paint. Wait 3-5 minutes for the chemical reaction (bleeding purple). This dissolves sintered iron particles from brake pads and industrial zones. In 40°C weather, you must keep the surface wet with a fine mist of water to prevent the chemical from drying.

Dry the panel slightly, then apply a tar remover to the lower thirds of the vehicle and the front bumper. This dissolves road bitumen and baked-on bug guts common in Australian summer driving. Wipe gently with a dedicated 'sacrifice' microfibre towel after 2 minutes.

Using a fine-grade clay bar and ample lubricant, glide the clay over the paint in 30x30cm sections. Use zero pressure; let the clay do the work. You will hear a 'scratching' sound initially; once the sound disappears and the clay glides silently, the contaminants are removed. Frequently knead the clay to a clean surface.

Perform a second snow foam wash using a 'strip' shampoo (high pH like Labocosmetica Primus) to remove all remaining lubricants, oils, and chemical residues. This leaves the paint 'naked' and ready for inspection.

Use a high-powered air blower to expel water from mirrors, badges, and lug nuts. In the Australian heat, towel drying can cause 'dry-rub' marring. If using a towel, use a high-GSM (1000+) twisted loop drying towel and a 'pat-dry' technique.

Use a high-CRI (Colour Rendering Index) LED detailing light to inspect the paint. Look for remaining 'nibs' or stubborn spots. The paint should feel completely smooth to a fingertip inside a plastic sandwich bag (the 'baggie test').