The Complete Guide to Clay Mitt Decontamination

Check the panel temperature. In Australian summer, never clay a surface that is hot to the touch. If the metal is hot, the lubricant will flash (evaporate) instantly, causing the clay mitt to stick and leave heavy rubberised streaks. Work in a garage or under a high-quality carport during the early morning or late evening.

Perform a thorough contact wash using the two-bucket method. Use a strip-wash or a concentrated shampoo to remove existing waxes. This ensures the clay mitt is only fighting embedded contaminants rather than surface dirt. Rinse the vehicle twice, paying special attention to wheel arches where red dust hides.

Apply an iron remover to the wet paint. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes (do not let it dry). You will see purple 'bleeding' as it reacts with iron. This step is vital because it dissolves the core of the contaminant, making the subsequent clay mitt pass much safer and more efficient.

Inspect the clay mitt for any manufacturing residue. If it is new, 'break it in' by using it on the glass surfaces first with plenty of lubricant. Glass is harder than paint and will safely smooth out the clay surface, reducing the risk of initial marring on the clear coat.

Generously spray a 40cm x 40cm section of the panel with your dedicated clay lubricant. You want the surface to be 'dripping' wet. Proper lubrication creates a hydroplaning effect, allowing the mitt to glide over the surface and only grab onto protruding contaminants.

Place your hand inside the mitt. When applying it to the paint, use zero downward pressure. The weight of your hand is sufficient. Excessive pressure is the primary cause of 'clay marring' or 'pigtails' in the paint finish.

Move the mitt in straight, overlapping horizontal lines, followed by vertical lines (a cross-hatch pattern). Avoid circular motions, as these create multi-directional scratches that are harder to polish out. Work in small sections to ensure the lubricant doesn't dry.

Listen closely as you move the mitt. You will hear a 'sandpaper' scratching sound initially. This is the sound of the clay shearing off contaminants. Continue the linear passes until the sound completely disappears and the mitt glides silently.

After rinsing and drying a section, place your hand inside a clean plastic sandwich bag and lightly slide it over the paint. The plastic intensifies your sense of touch. If it feels perfectly smooth like glass, move on. If it feels 'gritty,' repeat the process on that section.

Every half-panel, rinse the clay mitt in a bucket of clean water. Agitate the clay surface with your fingers to dislodge any trapped grit. This is the major advantage of a mitt over a bar; you can wash it rather than having to throw it away if dropped.

Clay your exterior glass (except for aftermarket tinted film) and smooth plastic trims. Removing water spots and sap from the windscreen significantly improves wiper performance and visibility during sudden summer storms.

When working on doors and fenders, start from the top and work down. Contamination is always heaviest on the lower thirds of the vehicle due to road tar and kick-up from the tyres. Save these dirtiest sections for last to prevent cross-contamination.

Once the entire vehicle is completed, perform a final rinse to remove all lubricant residue. Dry the vehicle immediately using a high-quality drying towel to prevent water spotting, which happens rapidly in high Australian temperatures.

Use a high-lumen detailing light or direct sunlight to check for any marring. If you see light hazing, don't panic—this is normal for softer paints and will be corrected in the polishing phase. Use an IPA wipe to ensure no lubricant oils are masking the true finish.