What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
This is a massive deep-dive into detailing your door jambs, hinges, and sills. I've put this together for the blokes and ladies who want their rig looking mint every time they open the door, especially if you've been out bush or living near the coast. We're covering everything from basic degreasing to advanced ceramic protection.
Why Bother with Door Jambs?
The Gear You'll Actually Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Getting the Rig Ready
Park in the shade
Never, ever do this in direct Aussie sun. The APC will dry on the paint in seconds and leave nasty streaks that are a nightmare to get off. Find a spot in the carport or wait until the arvo.
Vacuum the interior first
Seems counter-intuitive, but you want to get the loose dust out of the footwells so you aren't turning it into mud when you start spraying water nearby.
Inspect the seals
Have a look for any rips or tears in the rubber. If they're buggered, water is going to get into your cabin, and your partner definitely won't thank you for wet carpets.
Mix your chemicals
I usually mix my APC at about 10:1 for general cleaning. If they're filthy, go 4:1. Don't go full strength unless it's a tractor.
Open all doors
Give yourself space to move. If you're in a tight garage, just do one side at a time.
The Step-by-Step Deep Clean
Dry Brush
Before you get anything wet, use a dry, soft brush to flick out loose dust, dead flies, and sand. If you add water first, you're just making mud pies in your hinges.
Pre-rinse (Carefully)
Using a low-pressure mist, rinse the jambs. Avoid spraying directly into the cabin or at the electrical looms usually found in the rubber boot between the door and the body.
Apply APC
Spray your APC liberally from the top down. Let it dwell for about 2 minutes, but don't let it dry. If it's a hot day, do one door at a time.
Agitate the paintwork
Use your softest detailing brush to work the APC into the corners. Think of it like shaving, small, circular motions. I usually start at the top of the A-pillar and work down to the sills.
Attack the hinges
This is where the grease lives. Use your stiffer brush and maybe a bit of degreaser here. Get into the springs and the check-strap (that bar that stops the door swinging too far).
The 'Hidden' spots
Don't forget the underside of the door itself. That's where the drain holes are. If they're blocked with gunk, your door will hold water and rust from the inside out. (Learned that lesson the expensive way on an old Hilux).
Rinse clean
Rinse thoroughly. I like to use a damp microfibre for this part instead of a hose to keep the water controlled. If you use a hose, keep the nozzle close and the pressure low.
Decontaminate
If the sills feel rough to the touch, run a clay bar over them with some soapy water. This removes the metallic rail dust and salt crust.
Dry everything
Use a fresh microfibre to dry the jambs completely. Use a bit of compressed air if you've got it to blow water out of the hinges and bolt heads.
Protect the paint
Apply your sealant or wax. This makes it so much easier to clean next time because the dust won't stick as hard. I reckon a spray sealant is best here because it's fast.
Condition the seals
Wipe down all the rubber seals with your protectant. This stops them from sticking to the door in high heat and keeps them from cracking in the UV.
Re-grease
Since you've likely stripped the grease off the hinges, apply a tiny bit of lithium grease or PTFE spray to the moving parts. Don't overdo it, or you'll just attract more dust.
Watch Out
The Dust Brush Hack
Advanced Techniques for the Enthusiast
Watch Out
Keeping it Mint: The Aftercare
Common Questions from the Shed
Can I just use the high-pressure hose at the local car wash?
How do I get rid of that yellow grease that's everywhere?
My door jambs have white spots on them, what's that?
Is it okay to use WD-40 on the hinges?
What if I have matte paint?
How often should I do this?
Should I clean the engine bay jambs too?
What's the best way to dry the tight spots?
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