Professional Paint Correction and Polishing Techniques

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-alkaline 'strip' soap to remove old waxes and sealants. Follow this with an iron fallout remover to dissolve metallic particles from brake dust that become embedded in the paint. This ensures the polishing pad doesn't pick up grit that could cause deep scratches.

Run your hand over the clean, dry paint using a plastic sandwich bag as a glove. If it feels gritty, use a clay bar with ample lubricant. Work in 30x30cm sections until the paint feels 'glass smooth.' This step is vital in Australia to remove baked-on red dust and industrial fallout.

Use automotive masking tape to cover all rubber window seals, unpainted plastic trim, door handles, and badges. Polishing pads can easily burn or stain these porous surfaces. Taking 20 minutes to mask properly will save hours of cleaning white polish residue out of black plastic trim later.

Turn off the overhead lights and use your inspection torch. Identify the severity of defects. Always perform a 'test spot' on a flat area like the boot lid. Start with the least aggressive combination (finishing pad and fine polish). If that doesn't remove the defects, only then move to a more aggressive pad or compound.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of compound to a fresh pad. Spread it across the pad face with your finger or the nozzle to ensure even coverage. For subsequent passes, you only need 2-3 drops. Overloading the pad causes 'clumping' and reduces the effectiveness of the abrasives.

Work in a manageable area, no larger than 50cm x 50cm. Working in larger sections causes the polish to dry out prematurely, especially in Australian summer humidity, leading to 'dusting' and poor finish quality.

With the machine turned off, dab the pad across your 50cm section to distribute the polish. Set the DA polisher to its lowest speed setting (Speed 1) and spread the product evenly over the area in 5 seconds to prevent sling.

Increase the machine speed to 4 or 5. Apply moderate downward pressure (about 2-3kg) and move the machine slowly—roughly 2cm per second. Use a cross-hatch pattern: move horizontally across the section, then vertically, ensuring a 50% overlap on each pass.

Watch the film of polish on the paint. It will initially look milky, then start to turn translucent or 'clear' as the abrasives break down. This usually takes 4 to 6 passes. Stop immediately if the polish begins to dry or dust excessively.

Using a clean microfibre towel, gently wipe away the residue. Do not scrub; the paint is warm and sensitive. Spray the area with a panel wipe (IPA) to remove polishing oils, which can hide remaining scratches. Inspect the results with your LED light.

In Australian summer conditions, panels can get hot. Frequently touch the paint with the back of your hand. If it feels uncomfortably hot to the touch, stop and let it cool. Excessive heat can soften the clear coat and cause the pad to delaminate.

After every section, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out spent polish and removed paint residue. A clogged pad will stop cutting and start generating dangerous levels of heat. Switch to a fresh pad every 2-3 panels.

After completing the heavy cutting stage across the whole car, switch to a soft finishing foam pad and a fine polish. Repeat the process with lighter pressure and faster arm movement to remove any 'haze' and maximize gloss.

Perform a final, thorough wipe down of the entire vehicle with a dedicated prep spray. This removes all lubricants, ensuring your chosen wax, sealant, or ceramic coating can bond directly to the clean paint for maximum longevity.