Keeping Your Snorkel and Roof Rack From Fading and Cracking

Red dust is basically tiny rocks that want to sand down your gear. Never, ever scrub a dry snorkel. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore I once owned, scratched the trim to buggery. Always high-pressure rinse the snorkel and rack first to get the grit off before you touch it with a mitt. If you've been out near Birdsville, you might need a dedicated APC (All Purpose Cleaner) like Bowden's Own Agent Orange to break that clay down.

Pop the top off your snorkel every now and then. I had a customer bring in a Ranger that was 'losing power', turns out the snorkel head was half-full of dead Christmas beetles and leaf litter from parking under a gum tree. Give the inside a quick wipe and check that the weep holes aren't blocked, otherwise, the next big storm will have water sitting where it shouldn't be.

Textured plastic loves to soak up UV and turn grey. Once you've cleaned it, chuck some protection on. I reckon Gtechniq C4 is the gold standard if you want it to last a year, but if you're on a budget, Meguiar's Ultimate Black does a decent job. Just don't use the cheap silicone 'tyre shine' stuff from the servo, it'll just attract more dust the second you hit a gravel road.

If you've been beach driving, salt loves to hide in the T-channels of your roof rack. If you leave it, it'll corrode the hardware. I usually take a soft detailing brush and some soapy water and run it right through the channels. Honestly, I wouldn't bother with fancy 'rack waxes', a quick spray of a ceramic-based sealant like Gyeon WetCoat while the car is still wet is the fastest way to keep the salt from sticking.