What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, I've seen it all in my 15 years detailing. From people using kitchen sponges on their brand new Ranger to blokes scrubbing red dust with a dry rag. This guide is for anyone who wants their car to actually look good and hold its value. We're going to cover the basics of a safe wash, how to deal with the harsh Aussie sun, and the gear you actually need in your garage. No fluff, just the stuff that works.
Let's Get Your Car Looking Right
The Essential Kit (What You Actually Need)
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation is Everything
Find the Shade
Never, ever wash a car in direct sunlight if you can help it. The water dries too fast, leaving nasty water spots that are a nightmare to remove. If the bonnet is hot to the touch, let it cool down first.
The Wheel First Rule
Always wash your wheels first. Why? Because if you wash the paint then the wheels, you'll likely splash nasty brake dust back onto your clean car. Use a separate bucket for the wheels too (trust me on this one).
The Pre-Rinse
Give the whole car a good blast with the hose or pressure washer. You want to get as much loose grit, sand, and dust off before you even touch the paint with a mitt.
The Proper Way to Wash Your Car
Setup the Two Buckets
Fill one with water and your soap (the Wash bucket) and one with just plain water (the Rinse bucket). This is the secret to not scratching your car.
Snow Foam (Optional but Awesome)
If you've got a foam cannon, chuck some soap in and cover the car. Let it dwell for 5 minutes. It breaks down the oils and red dust so they slide off during the rinse.
Start from the Top
Always work from the roof down. The bottom of the car (sills and bumpers) is the filthiest part. You don't want that grit moving up to the roof.
The Wash Stroke
Don't go in circles! Use straight lines. If you do happen to get a bit of grit under the mitt, a straight scratch is much easier to polish out than a swirl mark. Be gentle, let the soap do the work.
Rinse the Mitt Constantly
After every panel, dunk your mitt in the Rinse bucket, give it a wiggle to drop the dirt, then go back into the soapy Wash bucket. If you've been off-roading, do this every half-panel.
Address the Wildlife
If you've got bird or bat droppings, don't scrub them. Soak them with a wet cloth for a minute until they soften up, then gently lift them off. Bat droppings are basically acid, they'll eat through your clear coat in hours if it's hot.
Final Rinse
Flood the panels with a gentle stream of water. This helps the water sheet off, making the drying process much faster.
The Drying Process
Lay your big microfibre towel flat on the bonnet and just pull it towards you. Don't 'scrub' the car dry. The less friction, the better.
Door Jams and Rims
Use a separate, older microfibre for the door jams and the wheels. Don't use your good paint towel for this or you'll contaminate it with grease.
Apply a Quick Protection
While the paint is fresh, spray a quick ceramic sealer or a spray wax like Gtechniq C2. It'll give you a bit of UV protection and make the next wash ten times easier.
Watch Out
The 'Dusty Track' Trick
Watch Out
Glass is the Secret
Keeping the Shine Alive
Common Questions from the Shed
Is dish soap really that bad?
How often should I wax my car?
Do I really need two buckets?
My car has 'red dust' everywhere after a trip. How do I get it out?
What's the best way to clean my interior?
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