What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we live in a country that basically wants to eat car paint for breakfast. Whether you're dealing with 40-degree heat in March or salt spray on a coastal run, your car needs more than just a quick bucket wash. I've put this together to share what I've learned after 15 years in the trade so you can keep your car looking mint without spending a fortune at a detailer.
The Reality of Detailing in Australia
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Preparation: Don't Rush the Start
Find the Shade
Never, ever wash a car in direct Aussie sun. The water dries too fast, leaves spots, and the chemicals can bake onto the surface before you can rinse them.
The Pre-Rinse
Blast the car down with just water first. You want to get as much loose dirt and grit off as possible before you touch the paint with a mitt.
Wheel First
I always do wheels first. They're the dirtiest part. If you do them last, you'll splash dirty brake dust water onto your clean paint.
Snow Foam (Optional but recommended)
If you've got a pressure washer, chuck some foam on. Let it dwell for 5 minutes to soften up the bug guts and dust.
Clean the Cracks
Use your APC and a brush to clean around the badges, fuel door, and window trims while the foam is sitting.
The Full Seasonal Detail Procedure
The Contact Wash
Two-bucket method. Dunk the mitt in soap, wash a panel, rinse the mitt in the plain water bucket, repeat. Start from the top and work down.
Chemical Decontamination
Rinse the soap off, then spray the iron remover over the whole car. It'll turn purple when it reacts with metal particles. Rinse it off thoroughly after 3-5 minutes.
Mechanical Decontamination (Clay Bar)
While the car is still wet, use a clay bar with plenty of lubricant (soapy water works fine). Glide it over the paint until it feels smooth. This pulls out the 'grit' you can't see.
The Final Rinse
Get all that clay residue and loosened dirt off the car. Use a decent stream of water.
Drying
Lay your microfiber towel flat across the bonnet and pull it towards you. Don't rub like you're drying your hair; let the towel soak up the water.
Paint Inspection
Now the car is clean, have a look at the paint. See any scratches or swirl marks? If it's really bad, you might need a light polish, but we'll focus on protection for now.
Surface Prep (IPA Wipe)
Wipe the panels down with a 15% Isopropyl Alcohol mix. This removes any leftover soaps or oils so your sealant can actually stick to the paint.
Applying the Protection
Apply your sealant. If using a spray, do one panel at a time. Spray on, wipe with one microfiber, buff off with a second dry one.
Door Jams
Don't forget the bits you don't see. Clean the door shuts and apply a bit of spray wax. It stops the red dust from sticking there.
Trim Restoration
Use a dedicated trim restorer on any faded black plastics. The sun kills these, and they'll turn grey if you don't feed them some UV protection.
Glass Treatment
Clean the outside glass, then apply a rain repellent like Rain-X or a ceramic glass coating. Makes a huge difference in those autumn storms.
Tyre Shine
Apply your tyre dressing. Less is more here. Wipe off any excess so it doesn't spray down the side of the car when you drive off.
Engine Bay Wipe Down
Just a quick wipe of the plastics under the hood with a damp cloth. It makes the car look brand new when you open it up.
Final Walkaround
Check for any high spots (streaks) from the sealant. If you find one, just wipe it with a damp cloth and buff dry.
Pro Tips from the Trade
Watch Out
My Recommended Kit for Aussie Conditions
Maintaining the Shield
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I just use the brush at the car wash?
How often should I clay bar my car?
What's the best thing for red dust?
Does my brand new car need this?
Is ceramic coating worth the money?
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