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Paint Protection intermediate 3 min read

Autumn Paint Protection Checklist (Mar 2026)

Your paint is under constant attack: UV rays, bird droppings, tree sap, and road grime. Protection isn't optional—it's essential.

Protecting your paint from the harsh Aussie sun and salt doesn't have to be a nightmare. This checklist covers exactly what you need to shield your ride before the winter rains hit.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 5 March 2026
Autumn Paint Protection Checklist (Mar 2026)

Aussie Conditions

Our intense UV breaks down waxes faster than overseas. Ceramic coatings last longer, but even they need topped up more frequently here.
Quick Summary

Look, I've spent 15 years polishing cars under the Aussie sun, and I've seen it all, from baked-on bat juice to red dust that practically stains metal. This guide is a quick-fire checklist to help you get a solid layer of protection on your paint before the weather turns. It's practical, fast, and uses the same gear I keep in my mobile van. Use this in the garage to make sure you don't miss a spot.

01

The Gear You Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/8
pH Neutral Car Wash — Something like Bowden's Own Nanolicious or Meguiar's Gold Class. Don't use dish soap, it'll strip your trim dry.
Two 15L Wash Buckets — One for soapy water, one for rinsing. Use grit guards if you've got 'em.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — A customer once asked why their wax felt 'bumpy', they skipped this. Use a medium grade for most Aussie daily drivers.
Clay Lubricant — Dedicated lube is best, but soapy water works in a pinch if you're careful.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Wipe — Usually a 15-20% dilution. This strips old oils so your protection actually sticks.
Synthetic Sealant or Ceramic Spray — I reckon Gtechniq C2v3 or Bowden’s Bead Machine are the best bang-for-buck for our heat.
6-8 Clean Microfibre Cloths — Get the 300-400GSM ones. If you drop one on the garage floor, chuck it in the bin (or the rag bag). It's not worth the scratches.
Waffle Weave Drying Towel — Way better than a chamois. Chamois are old school and usually just drag dirt around.
02

Pre-Start Sanity Check

What You'll Need

0/4
Surface Temperature — Is the bonnet cool to the touch? If it's too hot to keep your hand on, don't even start.
Shade Access — Are you under a carport or in a garage? Working in direct sun is the fastest way to get water spots.
Paint Health — Check for bird dropping etchings. If they're deep, you might need a light polish first.
Wind Check — If it's blowing a gale, dust will settle on your wet paint and scratch it while you dry. Close the door.
03

The Protection Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Heavy Decon Wash

Pressure wash the loose grit off first. Use the two-bucket method to wash from top to bottom, rinsing your mitt after every panel.

02

Chemical Decon

If you live near a railway or have heavy brake dust, hit it with an iron remover. Stuff smells like rotten eggs but works wonders.

03

Clay Bar Treatment

Glide the clay over the lubricated paint. I learned the hard way on a black Commodore, use heaps of lube or you'll leave marring everywhere.

04

Dry and Strip

Dry the car thoroughly, then use the IPA wipe-down. This removes any leftover soap film or clay lube so the sealant bonds to the paint.

05

Apply Protection

Apply your sealant panel by panel. Don't overdo it, more isn't better. Most modern sprays only need 2-3 mists per door.

06

The Buff Off

Wait the recommended flash time (usually 30-60 seconds) and buff with a fresh microfibre. Flip the cloth often to avoid saturating it with product.

04

Final Inspection

What You'll Need

0/4
High Spots — Check for dark, oily patches. If you find one, buff it out immediately before it cures.
Glass and Trim — Did you get sealant on the black plastics? Wipe it off now or it'll go chalky white by tomorrow.
Door Jambs — Always dry the jambs. Nothing ruins a clean car like water running out of the mirrors 5 minutes later.
The 'Feel' Test — Run the back of your hand over the paint. It should be slick as glass. If it's grabby, you missed a spot.

Watch Out

Never apply ceramic-based products onto a surface that hasn't been properly decontaminated, it's like putting a band-aid on a dirty knee, it just won't stick. Also, keep the car dry for at least 12-24 hours after applying a sealant so it can fully cure.

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