What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you're serious about keeping your car looking decent in Australia, a basic wash isn't enough once the seasons start changing. This guide is for anyone who wants that smooth-as-glass finish, whether you're prepping for a wax or just trying to save your paint from the harsh sun and salt. We're going to dive into chemical and mechanical decontamination, the stuff the pros do to make paint really pop.
Why Bother With Decontamination?
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
The Preparation
Find some shade
If the panels are hot to the touch, you're going to have a bad time. The chemicals will dry out and leave streaks that are a nightmare to remove. Wait for the arvo or get under a carport.
The Thorough Wash
Give the car a really good wash using the two-bucket method. We want every single bit of loose dirt gone before we start the 'deep clean' process. Dry the car roughly, but it doesn't have to be perfect.
Wheel Check
I usually do the wheels first with the iron remover, just to get the nastiest part out of the way. If your wheels are black and turning purple, that's the chemical working.
The Main Decontamination Procedure
Iron Decontamination
Spray your iron remover over the dry (but clean) paintwork. Work panel by panel. You'll see it start to 'bleed' purple. This is the chemical reacting with the iron particles. Leave it for 3-5 minutes, but do NOT let it dry.
Rinse Thoroughly
Blast the iron remover off with a pressure washer. You want to be really thorough here, especially around window trims and badges where the chemicals like to hide.
Tar and Sap Spot Clean
Look for those little black specks or sticky amber blobs on the lower doors. Chuck some tar remover on a cloth and dab them. Let it sit for a minute, then wipe away. Don't rub hard; let the solvent do the work.
Re-wet the Panel
Now for the clay bar. Make sure the panel is wet. I usually keep a spray bottle of clay lube in one hand and the clay in the other.
Knead the Clay
If using a traditional clay bar, flatten it out into a disc about the size of three fingers. If you drop it on the ground, throw it out immediately. Seriously. It'll pick up grit from the floor and turn into sandpaper.
The Clay Motion
Glide the clay over the lubricated panel using very light pressure. Use straight lines, not circles. At first, you'll feel it 'grabbing' the contaminants. When it slides perfectly smooth, that section is done.
Check the Clay
Every half a panel, look at the clay. If it looks brown or grey, fold it over to a fresh, clean side. This is why I reckon people stay away from claying, they forget to keep the surface clean.
Glass and Lights
Don't forget the windscreen and headlights! Claying the glass makes your wipers work ten times better. It's a game changer for those rainy winter mornings.
Final Rinse
Once the whole car is smooth, give it one last rinse to get rid of all the clay lube residue.
Dry the Car
Use a dedicated big microfibre drying towel. Pat it dry rather than dragging it if you want to be extra careful with the finish.
Watch Out
The 'Plastic Baggie' Trick
What Happens Next?
Don't Skimp on Lube
Common Questions
How often should I do this?
Will claying remove my scratches?
Can I use dish soap as clay lube?
My car is brand new, do I still need to do this?
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