What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we all love a weekend up at Double Island or Fraser, but the coastal air and salt spray are absolute killers for Aussie cars. This guide is for anyone who's just come back from a beach run and wants to make sure their pride and joy doesn't end up as a pile of iron lace in two years. I'll walk you through my personal process for getting the sand out of the cracks and the salt off the underbelly.
The Reality of Salt and Sand
What You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting the Stage
Let the engine cool
Don't go blasting cold water onto a hot engine block or brake rotors as soon as you pull into the driveway. Give it 20 minutes while you're getting your gear ready.
Remove the easy stuff
Take out the floor mats and give the interior a quick vacuum first. Sand has a habit of migrating from the carpet back onto your wet paint if you do it last.
Park on a slight incline
If your driveway has a bit of a slope, park facing uphill. It helps the water drain out of the chassis rails more effectively.
The Deep Clean Process
The 'Lazy Man's' Initial Flush
Chuck that old-school garden sprinkler under the car. Start at the front and let it run for 10 minutes, then move it to the middle, then the back. This softens up the dried salt and caked-on sand before you start hitting it with pressure.
High-Pressure Underbody Blast
Get under there with your pressure washer. You need to be methodical. Start from the front crossmember and work back. Pay special attention to the top of the chassis rails, the fuel tank straps, and the suspension towers. This is where sand hides and holds moisture against the metal.
Salt Neutraliser Application
Mix up your salt neutraliser (I reckon Salt Sifter is the best on the market right now) and spray it over everything under the car. Don't rinse it off immediately, let it sit for 5-10 minutes to chemically break down the salt crystals. (Just don't let it dry if it's a 35-degree arvo).
Wheel Arch Deep Dive
Turn your wheels to full lock to get better access. Use your pressure washer to blast inside the lip of the guards. I once pulled 2kg of wet sand out of a single wheel arch on a Ranger, it's a massive mud trap.
Exterior Snow Foam
Foam the whole car down. This helps lift the fine salt film and sand grit off the paintwork so you don't scratch the clear coat when you go to wash it with a mitt.
The Two-Bucket Wash
Wash the body from top to bottom. Use plenty of lubrication. If you've been near the ocean, that 'dust' on your paint is actually tiny salt crystals. Treat it like sandpaper.
Flush the Chassis Rails
If your 4x4 has holes in the chassis (most do), stick the garden hose in one end and let it run until the water coming out the other end is crystal clear. If it's coming out brown or gritty, keep going.
Door Jambs and Seals
Open every door, including the tailgate. Use a damp microfibre to wipe the seals. Sand gets trapped in the rubber and starts eating the paint away every time the door vibrates while you're driving.
Engine Bay Rinse
Gently, and I mean gently, mist the engine bay to get rid of salt spray. Don't use high pressure here unless you want to fry a sensor. Focus on the radiator and the battery terminals.
Final Rinse and Dry
Give it one last rinse with the hose and dry it off. A leaf blower is great for getting water out of the wheel nuts and light housings where rust usually starts its life.
Watch Out
The Lanotec Trick
Watch Out
Long-Term Protection
Common Questions
Can I just use the underbody wash at the local car wash?
How often should I do this if I live near the coast?
Is dish soap okay for washing the car?
I've already got some surface rust, is it too late?
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