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How to Properly Clean and Protect Your Snorkel and Roof Rack

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Ever noticed how your snorkel looks grey and chalky after a summer in the sun, or your roof rack is caked in red dust and bug guts? This guide covers how to deep clean and restore these high-exposure parts so they don't perish in the Aussie UV.

MT
Mick Thompson Senior Detailing Editor
| Updated: 2 March 2026
What You'll Learn
How to Properly Clean and Protect Your Snorkel and Roof Rack

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, most people just hit their snorkel with the pressure washer and call it a day, but that's how you end up with faded plastic and rusty mounting bolts. This deep dive is for anyone who actually uses their rig, whether you're battling coastal salt or outback dust. I'll show you how to get into the nooks and crannies and, more importantly, how to stop the sun from killing your gear.

01

The Realities of 4x4 Accessories in Australia

Right, let's get into it. If you've spent any time on the tracks or even just parked at the beach for a surf, you know that snorkels and roof racks take an absolute beating. They're the first things to get hit by the sun, the first things to catch the low-hanging branches, and the first things to get plastered in locusts or red dust. I remember back when I started out, a mate brought in his 79 Series that had just come back from a six-month stint in the Kimberley. The snorkel was so faded it looked like a stick of chalk, and his expensive aluminium roof rack had this gritty, orange film that just wouldn't budge. I tried a standard wash, and it did exactly nothing. That's when I realized that these parts need their own specific workflow. You can't just treat them like the paintwork. After 15 years in the trade, I've seen it all, from 'budget' snorkels that turned brittle and snapped after two summers to roof racks where the mounting bolts had basically fused to the gutters because of salt spray. The issue is that we often forget about the stuff up high. We wash the bonnet, the doors, and the tray, but we neglect the very things that are most exposed to that brutal 40-degree heat. In this guide, I'm going to walk you through how I handle these bits in my own shop. We aren't just 'washing' them; we're decontaminating the material and feeding it some protection so it doesn't crumble. Whether you've got a plastic Safari snorkel, a stainless steel custom pipe, or a massive rhino-rack setup, the principles are the same. We want it clean, but we also want it to last another ten years. Honestly, I wouldn't bother with those cheap 'all-in-one' waxes from the servo for this. You need the right gear for the job.
02

The Gear You'll Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/13
Tall Step Ladder — Don't try to be a hero and balance on the tyre. Get a stable 3-step ladder so you can actually see what's happening on top of the rack.
Soft-Bristled Detailing Brushes — A set of Boar's hair brushes is best. You need these for the snorkel grille and the rack joints.
Long-Reach Wheel Brush — Perfect for getting into the gap between the roof and the rack without scratching the paint.
Quality APC (All Purpose Cleaner) — I reckon Bowden's Own 'Orange Agent' or Meguiar's APC are the go-to here. Avoid anything too acidic.
Dedicated Bug Remover — Because snorkels are bug magnets. Autoglym Active Insect Remover is a cracker.
Microfibre Wash Mitt — Keep one specifically for the 'dirty' jobs like racks and underbodies.
Pressure Washer with 40-degree nozzle — Don't use a pinpoint spray; you'll peel the powder coating right off a cheap rack.
Non-Silicone Plastic Restorer — Something like Gtechniq C4 or Solution Finish. Don't use that greasy 'tyre shine' crap on a snorkel.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt — For removing that stubborn 'baked on' red dust from the metal surfaces.
Collapsible Bucket — Easier to manage when you're up on the ladder.
Degreaser (Water-based) — For the oily residue that often builds up near the snorkel intake.
Microfibre Towels — At least 5-6 clean ones. They'll get filthy, so don't use the missus's good ones.
Work Gloves — Roof rack channels are notorious for having sharp metal burrs or hiding spiders.
03

Pre-Game: Setting Yourself Up for Success

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Park in the shade

I cannot stress this enough. If the metal of the roof rack is hot enough to fry an egg, your cleaning chemicals will dry instantly and leave nasty streak marks. Do it early morning or late arvo.

02

Check the snorkel head

Turn the engine off (obviously). Check if the snorkel head is loose. If it's a ram-air type, make sure the clamp is tight so you don't accidentally knock it off with the pressure washer.

03

Clear the rack

Take off the Maxtrax, the shovel, and the awning if you can. You'll never get it properly clean if you're trying to wash around a dirty spare tyre.

04

The 'Spider Sweep'

In Australia, roof racks are basically luxury apartments for Redbacks and Huntsmans. Take a brush and sweep out the channels before you stick your fingers in there. (Made this mistake once on a black Commodore, never again).

05

Pre-Rinse

Blast the whole area with low-pressure water to knock off the loose grit. This stops you from grinding sand into the powder coating when you start scrubbing.

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04

The Step-by-Step Deep Clean

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Bug Pre-Soak

Spray your insect remover onto the front-facing side of the snorkel and the leading edge of the roof rack. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes, but don't let it dry.

02

The Snorkel Intake

Use a small detailing brush and APC to clean the mesh or slats of the snorkel head. This is where the airflow happens, so keep it clear. Be careful not to spray water directly down the pipe.

03

Under the Rack

This is the hardest part. Use your long-reach brush to get into the gap between the roof and the rack. This is where salt and mud sit and start the rust process.

04

Channel Scrubbing

Modern racks (like Rhino or Yakima) have T-channels. Use a stiff brush to get the red dust out of these tracks. If you leave it, it turns into a grinding paste that ruins your accessories.

05

The Main Wash

Use the two-bucket method for the rest of the rack. Wash the top surfaces just like you would the car body.

06

Mechanical Decontamination

If the snorkel feels rough like sandpaper, it's covered in industrial fallout or sap. Use a clay mitt with plenty of soapy water to smooth it out.

07

Rinse Thoroughly

Rinse from the top down. Ensure no soap is trapped in the mounting brackets or the snorkel's drainage valves (the little weep holes at the bottom).

08

Drying

Don't let it air dry in the sun, or you'll get water spots. Use a dedicated drying towel or, better yet, a leaf blower to get water out of the bolts.

09

Snorkel Restoration

If the plastic is faded, apply a trim restorer. Apply to a microfibre applicator and work it into the grain of the plastic. This is the only method I trust for long-term UV protection.

10

Rack Protection

For powder-coated racks, apply a spray sealant or a ceramic spray. This makes it much easier to wash off the mud next time.

11

Bolt Inspection

While you're up there, check the tension on your mounting bolts. Vibrations on corrugated roads loosen them over time.

12

Sealant Cure

Let the protection products 'set' for at least an hour before driving. This prevents dust from sticking to the fresh coating.

Watch Out

Don't ever use 'Back to Black' or oily silicone dressings on a snorkel. Not only does it attract dust like a magnet, but if it drips down into your air intake, it's not doing your engine any favours. Also, stay away from high-pressure water near the snorkel head opening, you're trying to clean the car, not hydro-lock the motor.

The Red Dust Secret

If you've got that stubborn red Pilbara dust that won't come off, try an 'iron remover' spray (the stuff you use on wheels). It reacts with the iron oxide in the dust and helps lift it out of the porous powder coating.
05

Maintenance and Long-Term Care

Once you've got everything looking mint, the trick is keeping it that way. In the Aussie sun, protection lasts about half as long as the bottle says it will. If you're parking outside every day, I'd reckon on re-applying your UV protectant every 2-3 months. After a trip to the beach, don't just wash the sides of the car. Get that hose right into the roof rack mounting points. Salt loves to hide in the threads of the bolts and the rubber gaskets. If you've got a stainless snorkel, give it a wipe down with a dedicated stainless cleaner to keep that 'tea staining' (those little brown rust spots) at bay. It only takes five minutes, but it'll save you a world of hurt when you go to sell the rig and the buyer sees a pristine setup instead of a weathered mess. Your partner will thank you when the car doesn't look like a farm truck every time you go to the shops.
06

Advanced Techniques: Restoring 'Chalky' Snorkels

If your snorkel is already 'gone', meaning it's turned grey and feels powdery, a simple dressing won't fix it. You need to lightly 'exfoliate' the plastic. I use a very fine magic eraser (carefully!) with a lot of lubricant to take off that oxidized top layer. Once you see the black plastic underneath again, you MUST seal it immediately with a high-quality ceramic trim coating like Gtechniq C4. This stuff chemically bonds to the plastic. It's expensive, but it's the only thing that actually stands up to the Queensland or WA sun. Some people swear by using a heat gun to bring the oils to the surface, but I reckon that's a mistake, it makes the plastic brittle in the long run. Stick to the chemical restoration.
07

The Detailer's Choice: What Works

Look, I've tried everything. For the wash, Bowden's Own 'Nanolicious' is great because it has built-in UV inhibitors. For the snorkel restoration, Solution Finish is the industry standard for a reason, it actually puts black pigment back into the plastic. If you've got a stainless steel snorkel, 'Autoglym Metal Polish' is my go-to. Don't waste your money on those cheap 'tyre and trim' aerosols from the supermarket; they're mostly just mineral oil and will wash off the first time it rains, leaving greasy streaks all down your windows.
08

Common Questions from the Tracks

Can I go through an automatic car wash with a snorkel and rack?
Honestly, I wouldn't. The brushes can snag on the rack or the snorkel head and cause some serious damage. Plus, they never actually get the dirt out from under the rack.
How do I get bird droppings off the roof rack without scratching?
Don't scrub! Soak a microfibre cloth in warm soapy water, lay it over the dropping for 5 minutes to soften it, then just wipe it away. Our birds have some pretty acidic 'deposits', so get it off quick before it eats the paint.
My rack is making a whistling noise after cleaning. Why?
Check that you haven't moved the rubber 'infills' in the channels. Those rubber strips are there to stop wind noise. If they're missing or loose, she'll whistle like a kettle at 100km/h.
Is it safe to wax a matte black roof rack?
No dramas, but don't use a traditional paste wax as it'll leave white residue in the texture. Use a modern 'spray wax' or 'sealant' that dries clear.

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