What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all been there, you've come back from a camping trip or a run through some local tracks and the rig is absolutely caked. Whether it's that sticky black soil or the dreaded red dust from out back, getting it off properly is a bit of a process. This guide is for anyone who wants to keep their paint looking decent while still actually using their car for what it was built for. I'll take you through the exact method I use in my shop to get cars back to showroom nick without scratching them to bits.
The Reality of Aussie Dirt
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting Yourself Up for Success
Find the Shade
Never, ever wash a muddy car in direct Australian sun if you can help it. If the panels are hot to the touch, the soap will dry instantly and leave nasty spots. If you've got no choice, do one small section at a time and keep it wet.
The Dry Knock-Off
If you've got massive chunks of dry mud under the wheel arches, give them a gentle tap with a rubber mallet or your hand (wear gloves!) to drop the heavy stuff before you even start the water. It saves you making a massive slurry pit in your driveway.
Check for 'Hitchhikers'
Check the radiator and grill for sticks, grass, or dead locusts. These can cause overheating if you just push them further in with a pressure washer.
The Step-By-Step Deep Clean
The Wheels and Arches First
Always start here. If you do them last, you'll splash dirty gunk all over your clean paint. Use the pressure washer to get right up inside the arches. You'd be amazed how much red dust hides on top of the fuel tank and chassis rails.
Initial Rinse (The 'Gentle' Blast)
Rinse the whole car from the top down. Don't try to 'blast' the mud off initially. You want to hydrate it. Wet it down, let it sit for a minute to soften, then rinse again with a bit more pressure. (I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, tried to blast dry mud off and it basically sandblasted the clear coat).
The Snow Foam Soak
Chuck your high-alkaline foam on the dry-ish car. You want it thick. Let it dwell for about 5-8 minutes, but don't let it dry. This chemical stage is what actually lifts the dirt away from the surface.
Detailing Brush Work
While the foam is doing its thing, take your soft brush and go around the window seals, fuel cap, door handles, and badges. This is where red dust lives forever if you aren't careful.
The Big Rinse
Pressure wash all that foam off. Start from the bottom this time to give the soap more dwell time on the dirtiest bits, then finish with a top-down rinse. By now, the car should look 90% clean.
Two-Bucket Wash
Now it's safe to touch the paint. One bucket with your shampoo (I reckon Meguiar's Gold Class is still one of the best for the price), and one with plain water to rinse your mitt. Light pressure only, let the mitt do the work.
Underbody Blast
Get that underbody attachment out. If you've been near the beach or in salty mud, this is the most important step. Salt and Aussie steel don't mix well, ask anyone with a rusty 70-series.
Door Jams and Sills
Open every door and wipe the jams with a damp, older microfibre. Dust gets in here and acts like a grindstone every time the door vibrates while you're driving.
Final Rinse
A final, low-pressure flood rinse to help the water sheet off the panels.
The Dry
Use your big drying towel. Don't rub; just lay it across the panel and pat it. If you missed a tiny bit of dirt, rubbing will scratch it. Patting won't.
The Secret for Red Dust
Watch Out
Protecting the Finish
Common Questions from the Garage
Can I just use a dish soap to get the heavy grease off?
How do I get mud out of the radiator fins?
Is it okay to wash the engine bay if it's muddy?
The mud left 'ghosting' marks on my paint, what do I do?
The 'Old Mate' Underbody Trick
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