How to Machine Polish Your Paint and Get That Deep Shine

Give the car a proper wash using a high-foaming soap. You want to get every bit of that red dust out of the crevices. If you've been near the coast, pay extra attention to the wheel arches to get the salt off.

Run your hand over the paint. Feel those little bumps? That's bonded contamination. Use a clay mitt with plenty of lubricant (soapy water works fine) until the paint feels smooth as glass. This is the most important prep step.

Dry the car thoroughly. Then, use your masking tape to cover any black plastic trim, rubber window seals, or badges. Polish is a nightmare to get off textured plastic, and machine pads can burn through rubber in seconds. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore once, spent three hours trying to get white residue off the door seals. Never again.

Apply 4-5 pea-sized drops of your chosen polish onto the foam pad. Smear it around with your finger so the whole surface has a light coating. You don't want to start with a bone-dry pad.

Don't try to do the whole bonnet at once. Stick to a 50cm x 50cm square. It keeps things manageable and ensures you're actually doing the work.

With the machine OFF, dab the pad across your work area. This spreads the product so it doesn't spray everywhere (the 'polishing freckles' look is not what we're going for).

Start the machine on a low setting (1 or 2) to spread the polish, then crank it up to 4 or 5 for the actual correction work.

Move the machine in slow, overlapping passes. Go left-to-right, then up-and-down. Let the weight of the machine do the work; you don't need to lean on it like you're trying to crush a grape.

This is crucial. If you tilt the machine, you'll get uneven results and potentially create more heat than you want. Keep that pad face flush with the panel.

After 3-4 passes, turn the machine off and wipe the residue with a clean microfibre. Spray a bit of IPA to clear the oils. Shine your light on it. Are the swirls gone? If so, move to the next section. If not, give it another go.

After every couple of sections, use a pad brush or compressed air to blow out the spent polish and dead paint. A clogged pad won't cut, it'll just generate heat and frustration.

Once you've done the whole car with a 'cutting' compound, switch to your finishing pad and a fine polish. This is what gives it that 'dripping wet' look. Repeat the same process, but with less pressure and a slightly lower speed.

Do one last lap of the car with the IPA spray and a fresh microfibre. You want the paint totally bare before you put your protection on.