How to Clean and Protect Your Convertible Soft Top (Mar 2026)

Never, ever do this in direct sunlight. If the cleaner dries on the fabric before you rinse it, you'll get nasty streaks that are a bugger to get out. Make sure the roof is cool to the touch.

Before you even touch a hose, vacuum the roof thoroughly. Use the brush attachment and go in one direction. This pulls out the Aussie red dust and sand that's buried deep in the weave. If you wet it first, you're just turning that dust into mud inside the fabric.

This is the part everyone skips because they're lazy, but you'll regret it. Use your painter's tape and plastic to cover the windows and the paintwork surrounding the roof. Fabric protectants are usually solvent-based and can be a nightmare to get off your glass or trim once they dry.

Give the roof a gentle soak with a hose. You want it damp but not necessarily drowning.

Spray your fabric cleaner evenly across a section (usually a quarter of the roof at a time). Let it dwell for 2-3 minutes, but don't let it dry out.

Use your horsehair brush in small, circular motions. You'll see the suds turn grey or brown, that's the gunk coming out. Don't scrub like you're trying to remove rust; let the chemicals do the heavy lifting.

Rinse until the water runs clear and there are no more bubbles. Any soap left in the fibres will stop your protector from bonding later.

If you've got stubborn bird lime or tree sap, hit those spots again. I once had a client with a white Saab roof covered in bat droppings, had to go over it three times. Be patient.

This is the most important step. The roof must be 100% bone dry before you apply protection. I usually leave it in the garage overnight or use a leaf blower to speed things up. If there's moisture in the weave, the sealant won't stick.

Once it's dry, spray your chosen sealant (like 303 or Gtechniq) in even, overlapping strokes. Think of it like spray painting. Don't saturate it so much that it runs, but make sure you get good coverage.

Some pros like to use a clean, dry brush to lightly work the protector into the fibres. I reckon it helps, especially on older, thirstier tops.

Wait about 20 minutes and apply a second coat in the opposite direction (cross-hatching). This ensures you haven't missed any spots.

Keep the car out of the rain and sun for at least 12-24 hours. The sealant needs time to bond to the fibres to create that hydrophobic 'beading' effect.