How to Clay Bar Your Car Like a Pro Without Ruining the Paint

Never, ever clay a hot car. If the panel is too hot to touch comfortably, you're going to have a bad time. The lube will dry instantly and the clay will stick like glue.

Always do wheels first. You don't want brake dust splashing onto your freshly decontaminated paint later.

Wash the car twice. Use the two-bucket method. You want every bit of loose dirt gone. If there's a grain of sand left, you'll just drag it across the paint with the clay.

Spray the dry paint with Iron Remover. Let it dwell (but don't let it dry!). Rinse it off once it turns purple. This does 50% of the work for you.

Check the lower panels. If you see black spots, hit them with tar remover and wipe away with an old microfibre. Clay hates tar; it just gums up the bar.

Give it one more blast with the hose to make sure all the chemicals are gone. You don't even need to dry it yet, a wet car is actually better for claying.

If you've got a 100g bar, cut it into 3 or 4 pieces. Knead one piece into a flat pancake about the size of three fingers.

In winter it's hard, but in February it'll be soft. Just work it in your hands for a minute to make it pliable.

Spray a 40x40cm section of a panel liberally. Don't be stingy here. You want it dripping.

Place the clay on the panel. Use two fingers to glide it. You aren't scrubbing a pot; you're just guiding the clay.

Work in straight lines, up and down, then side to side. Avoid circles. If you do accidentally scratch it, straight lines are easier to polish out.

You'll hear a 'scritch-scritch' sound at first. That's the clay hitting the dirt. When the noise stops and the clay glides silently, you're done with that spot.

After half a panel, look at the clay. If it looks brown or grey, it's dirty.

Fold the dirty side inward and flatten it out again to reveal a fresh, clean surface. This is the most important step!

Wipe the lube off with a clean microfibre and run your hand over it. Use a plastic sandwich bag over your hand to magnify the feel, it should be smooth as glass.

Start with the roof, then the bonnet, then the boot. Do the lower doors and bumpers last, as they are always the filthiest.

Yes, you can clay your windows and headlights! It works wonders for removing water spots and bug guts that are baked on.

If you're a bit of a perfectionist, clay the painted areas inside the doors. It stops grease and gunk from building up.

Every couple of panels, give the whole car a quick spray to keep the lube from drying on the paint.

Once the whole car is done, give it a quick soapy wash to remove the film left by the clay lube.

Use a dedicated drying towel or a blower. You want it bone dry before the next step.