Getting Your Pride and Joy Ready for the Show Field

Always start with the wheels and wheel arches while the car is stone cold. I've seen guys warp rotors by spraying cold water on hot brakes after a drive. Use a dedicated bucket just for wheels, never mix it with your paint buckets.

Apply iron remover to the dry paint. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes (don't let it dry in the sun!). Rinse it off thoroughly. This removes the 'invisible' grit that causes those tiny scratches when you're polishing.

Chuck a thick layer of foam over the whole car. This isn't just for the 'gram; it softens the dirt. Use a brush to hit the badges and window seals while the foam is sitting there.

One for soapy water, one for rinsing your mitt. If you drop your wash mitt on the ground, it's dead. Put it in the bin or keep it for the lawnmower. Don't touch the car with it again.

Use plenty of lube and glide that clay bar over the wet paint. When it stops grabbing and feels smooth as glass, you're done. Dry the car using a blower or a high-quality drying towel.

Use blue painter's tape to cover all rubber seals, plastic trim, and sharp body lines. I once burnt through the paint on a sharp crease of a Falcon GT because I was being lazy with the tape. Lesson learned. It takes 30 minutes but saves you thousands in respray costs.

Don't just start hacking away. Try your least aggressive polish and pad combo on a small section of the bonnet. If that clears the swirls, great. If not, step up to a heavier compound.

If the paint is hammered, use a microfibre pad and a heavy compound. Work in 50x50cm sections. Keep your arm speed slow and let the machine do the work. Don't push down like you're trying to crush a spider.

Wipe the section with IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to remove the polishing oils. Shine your LED light on it. If you see 'haze' or 'marring', don't panic, the next step fixes that.

This is where the magic happens. Switch to a soft foam finishing pad and a fine polish. This removes the haze from the heavy cut and brings out that deep, rich colour. Take your time here.

A show judge will always look here. Use a steam cleaner if you have one, or a mild APC (All-Purpose Cleaner) and brushes. Avoid spraying heaps of water near the ECU or spark plugs. Dress the hoses with a non-greasy protectant.

Clean the windows three times. Inside and out. Use a dedicated glass polish on the exterior to remove water spots. A clean windshield is the difference between 'good' and 'elite'.

Get in there with a microfibre and some spray wax. Remove any old yellow grease and replace it with a tiny bit of clean white lithium grease if needed, but keep it tidy.

Vacuum everything twice. Use a soft brush for the air vents. If you've got leather, use a dedicated cleaner that leaves a matte finish. Nobody likes a shiny, greasy steering wheel at a show.

Go over the entire car with a fresh panel wipe. You want that paint surgically clean for the last step.

For a show car, I still reckon a high-quality Carnauba wax like Swissvax or even Autoglym Ultra High Definition Wax gives a warmer, deeper glow than a ceramic coating. Apply it thin. If you can see it, you've put too much on.

Use a matte or satin tyre dressing. Stay away from the 'wet look' tyre shines that sling oil down the side of your freshly polished doors the moment you drive out the driveway.

Polish them with a metal polish and 0000 grade steel wool if they're crusty. If they're chrome, just use a cloth and polish. They should reflect like a mirror.

Walk around the car with a fresh light. Check for wax residue in the cracks, streaks on the glass, or dust on the dash. This is where you win or lose.