What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, if you've just come back from a trip up north or across the Nullarbor, your car's probably looking more orange than a sunset. Red dust is a nightmare because it's abrasive and slightly acidic, so you can't just go at it with a sponge and a bucket of soapy water. I've written this for anyone who's sick of finding red stains on their driveway and wants to get their daily or their 4x4 back to looking decent without scratching the living daylights out of the clear coat.
The Red Dust Reality
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
Setting Yourself Up For Success
Find some shade
Never, and I mean never, wash a car covered in red dust in direct sunlight. If the water dries on the paint while you're working, it'll leave iron spots that are a nightmare to get off. Wait until the panels are cool to the touch.
Dry-vac the interior first
If you've got dust inside, vacuum it out while it's dry. As soon as you add moisture or steam, that dust turns into mud and stains the carpets forever. Ask the missus, I ruined the mats in our old Kia doing exactly that.
Seal the windows
Check all your window seals and make sure they're shut tight. Red dust loves to find its way into the cabin through the smallest gaps.
The Systematic Removal Process
The Heavy Flush
Start from the top and work down with just water. Spend a good 15 minutes just rinsing. You want to get the bulk of the loose stuff off before you even think about soap. Pay massive attention to the wheel arches and inside the chassis rails.
Underbody Attack
This is where people get lazy. Stick your pressure washer under the car. If you don't have a dedicated underbody attachment, just lay on the ground and get in there. Keep going until the water running out from under the car is clear, not orange.
Snow Foam Blanket
Cover the whole car in a thick layer of snow foam. Let it dwell for about 5-7 minutes, but don't let it dry. This encapsulates the fine particles so they slide off rather than scratching. I usually go make a coffee while this happens.
Detailing Brush Work
While the foam is on, use a soft brush to go around window seals, badges, door handles, and the fuel filler cap. These are the spots where red dust hides and then bleeds out later.
Rinse and Repeat
Rinse the foam off. If the water still looks a bit murky, honestly, just foam it again. It's cheaper than a paint correction later.
The Two-Bucket Wash
Now you can finally touch the car. Use one bucket for your soapy water and one for rinsing your mitt. Clean one panel at a time, rinsing your mitt after every single pass. If you drop your mitt on the ground, chuck it in the bin (or the wash) and get a fresh one.
Iron Decontamination
Once the car is clean but still wet, spray an iron remover on the lower panels and wheels. You'll see it turn purple as it reacts with the red dust particles stuck in the pores of the paint. Rinse it off thoroughly after 2-3 minutes.
Door Jambs and Boot Shut
Open the doors and use your APC and a cloth to wipe down the internal frames. This is where 90% of the dust settles. Don't spray water directly in here unless you want a wet interior.
The Engine Bay
Give the engine bay a light misting with APC, agitate with a brush, and rinse with very low pressure. Avoid the alternator and air intake. A clean engine runs cooler, which you'll want in this Aussie heat.
Final Rinse and Dry
One last rinse with the pressure washer, then dry it off with a massive microfibre drying towel. I'm a big fan of the 'Big Green Sucker' from Bowden’s. Using a leaf blower to get water out of the mirrors and lights helps a lot too.
Watch Out
The Hidden Dust Trap
Watch Out
Protecting the Finish
Common Questions I Get Asked
Can I just use a drive-through car wash?
The red dust has stained my white plastic trim. What do I do?
How do I get the red out of the seat belts?
Is it worth getting an underbody rust protection spray?
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