What You'll Learn
Aussie Conditions
Look, we've all been there, it starts pouring on the Monaro Highway and your wipers are just moving mud around. I'm going to show you how to properly prep and coat your glass so the water just flies off at 60km/h. This isn't just about sticking some cheap spray on at the servo; it's about getting that glass surgically clean first so the treatment actually bonds. Whether you're dealing with salt spray on the coast or that fine red dust out west, this method is the only way I've found that works long-term.
Why Bother with Glass Treatments?
The Gear You'll Need
What You'll Need
While you're here...
The Preparation (Don't Skip This)
The Initial Wash
Give the whole car a wash, or at least the glass and surrounding trim. You don't want dust blowing onto your clean glass halfway through. Make sure the glass is cool to the touch, don't do this if the car's been sitting in the sun all arvo.
Clay Bar Decontamination
Spray your water or glass cleaner as lube and run the clay bar over the glass. You'll hear it 'singing' at first as it hits the bumps, then it'll go silent. That's when you know the industrial fallout, salt, and bug guts are gone.
The Chemical Strip
Dry the glass, then hit it with your glass polish. Work it in circles with a bit of elbow grease. This removes the 'traffic film', that nasty oily layer that comes off the exhaust of the trucks in front of you.
Applying the Treatment
The Final Wipe
Use your IPA (alcohol) mix and a clean towel to wipe the glass one last time. This ensures there's absolutely zero polish residue left. The glass should feel 'grabby' now, not slick.
Sectioning
Mentally divide the windscreen in half. You want to work on one side at a time so the product doesn't dry out too much before you can buff it.
Prime the Pad
Chuck a few drops of your chosen repellent onto the applicator pad. You don't need to soak it; a little goes a long way with the good stuff.
Apply in Circles
Work the product into the glass using small, overlapping circular motions. Ensure you get right into the corners, but try not to get it on the rubber seals or plastic trim.
Cross-Hatch Pattern
After the circles, go over the same area with straight up-and-down lines, then side-to-side. This 'cross-hatching' ensures 100% coverage. No missed spots.
Wait for the Haze
Most products need 5-10 minutes to bond (check the bottle). It'll start to look a bit cloudy or hazy. That's the carrier solvent evaporating.
The Second Coat (Optional)
If you're using a long-term coating like G1, I usually chuck a second coat on the windscreen immediately. The side windows usually only need one.
Initial Buff
Take a clean microfibre and buff away the haze. It might feel a bit tough at first. If it's being stubborn, a tiny spray of water or glass cleaner on the towel helps it move.
Check for High Spots
Get a torch or use the sun to look at the glass from different angles. You're looking for any 'rainbow' streaks or hazy patches. Buff them out now or they'll be stuck there.
Clean the Wipers
Don't forget this! Put some glass cleaner on a rag and pinch the wiper blade, sliding it along the rubber. You'll be shocked at the black gunk that comes off. (Unless you're smart and just bought new ones).
Curing Time
This is the hard part. Most coatings need to stay dry for at least 3-4 hours to fully harden. Don't go through a car wash or turn your wipers on yet.
Watch Out
The Side Window Trick
Watch Out
Keeping it Working
The Sandpaper Effect
Common Questions
Will this make my wipers chatter or squeak?
How often should I redo the treatment?
Can I use this on my helmet visor or motorbike screen?
Is it worth doing the rear window?
What's the best way to remove bird droppings without ruining the coating?
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