Advanced Windscreen Restoration and Hydrophobic Coating Application

Park the vehicle in a fully shaded area with a surface temperature between 15°C and 25°C. In the Australian summer, glass temperatures can exceed 70°C in the sun; applying chemicals to hot glass causes instant evaporation, leading to chemical etching and impossible-to-remove streaks. Ensure the glass is cool to the touch before proceeding.

Lift the wiper arms into the service position. Inspect the rubber refills for nicks, rounding of the wiping edge, or 'chatter' marks. If the rubber is hardened by UV exposure, replace them immediately. A degraded wiper blade will physically scrape a newly applied coating off the glass within weeks.

Thoroughly rinse the windscreen and surrounding plastic scuttle panels with high-pressure water to remove loose red dust and grit. Focus on the base of the windscreen where salt and dirt accumulate. Use a soft brush to clean the rubber gaskets surrounding the glass to prevent 'wicking' of dirt during the polishing phase.

Apply a dedicated bug and tar remover to any visible organic remains. Allow to dwell for 3 minutes (do not let it dry). This softens the enzymes in bird droppings and bug guts, ensuring they can be wiped away without the need for aggressive scrubbing that could scratch the glass.

Spray a generous amount of ammonia-free glass cleaner onto a waffle-weave towel rather than the glass directly. Wipe the windscreen in a cross-hatch pattern (horizontal then vertical passes). This initial clean removes the 'easy' dirt and provides a clear view of the deeper contamination that requires mechanical removal.

Using a dedicated clay lubricant or the glass cleaner as a buffer, glide the clay bar across the glass. You will likely hear a 'gritty' sound; this is the clay picking up bonded iron filings and industrial fallout. Continue until the clay glides silently and smoothly. This step is vital for the 'hand-feel' and clarity of the finish.

Apply a pea-sized amount of Cerium Oxide polish to a firm foam or felt applicator. Work in 30cm x 30cm sections using circular motions with moderate pressure. This removes the 'traffic film'—a greasy layer of diesel exhaust and road grime that standard soaps cannot touch. The glass should look perfectly uniform when the polish is wiped away.

Rinse the glass thoroughly with water to ensure all abrasive particles are removed from the gaps between the glass and the trim. If polish dries in the trim, it will leave white marks. Dry the glass completely using a fresh microfibre towel, ensuring no moisture remains under the wiper cowls.

Spray a 70% IPA solution onto the glass and wipe with a clean microfibre. The glass should feel 'grabby' and may literally squeak. This indicates that all oils, waxes, and polishing surfactants have been stripped, leaving a 'naked' glass surface ready for chemical bonding with the treatment.

Apply 10-15 drops of the water repellent to a suede applicator. Apply to the glass in small, overlapping circular motions to ensure 100% coverage. Start from the top corner and work down. Ensure the edges near the 'A' pillars are well-covered, as these areas often see the most turbulence and water accumulation.

Wait for the coating to 'flash' or haze. Depending on humidity (which can be high in coastal QLD or WA), this usually takes 5 to 10 minutes. The coating will appear slightly dull or rainbow-like. Do not rush this; the carrier solvent must evaporate for the active ingredients to bond.

Using a clean, low-pile microfibre towel, gently buff the hazed area. Use light pressure; you are simply removing the excess product. If the towel 'drags,' apply a tiny amount of glass cleaner or water to the towel to help level the high spots. The result should be optically perfect with no visible streaks.

For maximum durability against the scrub-action of wipers, apply a second layer to the driver's side 'sweep' area after 15 minutes. This 'stacking' provides a thicker barrier in the high-wear zone, ensuring the treatment doesn't fail prematurely during a long interstate drive in the rain.

Use a bright LED torch or the sun to inspect the glass from multiple angles, including from inside the cabin. Look for 'high spots' (darker patches of product). Once satisfied, the vehicle must remain dry for at least 4 to 12 hours (refer to product specs). Avoid using the wipers or washers during this critical curing window.