Advanced Windscreen Deep Cleaning and Ceramic Repellent Application

Ensure the vehicle is parked in a fully shaded area with the glass cool to the touch. In summer, if the car has been sitting outside, the glass can reach 70°C, which will cause cleaning chemicals and coatings to flash (evaporate) instantly, leading to uncontrollable streaking. Allow at least 1 hour of cooling in shade before beginning.

Thoroughly rinse the windscreen and surrounding areas with high-pressure water to remove loose red dust and grit. Focus on the 'scuttle' (the area where the wipers sit) and the side pillars. If grit is trapped here, it will be picked up by your towels later and scratch the glass.

Use low-tack painter's tape to cover the rubber window seals and the plastic wiper cowl. Glass polishes contain abrasives that can turn black plastic trim white permanently. Masking takes 5 minutes but saves hours of cleaning later.

Lift the wiper arms into the service position. Clean the rubber blades with a damp cloth and a drop of dish soap to remove accumulated carbon and road grime. If the blades are cracked or 'set' in one direction due to heat, they must be replaced after the treatment.

Spray the glass liberally with an ammonia-free glass cleaner. Using a waffle-weave towel, wipe in a grid pattern (horizontal then vertical). This removes the initial layer of oils and bird dropping residue. Repeat until the towel shows no brown or grey discoloration.

Apply a dedicated clay lubricant or glass cleaner to a 30x30cm section. Gently glide the clay bar over the glass. You will hear a 'gritty' sound—this is the clay catching embedded particles. Continue until the clay glides silently. This step is vital for removing 'industrial fallout' and baked-on salt crystals.

Apply a pea-sized amount of glass polish to a firm foam applicator. Work in small circular motions with moderate pressure. This removes 'water spots' (calcium deposits) that cleaning alone cannot touch. The glass should look perfectly uniform and 'flat' when the polish is wiped away.

Rinse the glass thoroughly with fresh water to ensure all abrasive polish is gone from the corners. Dry completely using a fresh microfibre towel. Any remaining polish will interfere with the chemical bond of the repellent.

Spray a 70% Isopropyl Alcohol solution onto a clean microfibre and wipe the entire screen. This removes any leftover oils from the polish or your skin. The glass is now 'chemically stripped.' If you see any 'rainbowing' or streaks, wipe again until the surface is surgically clean.

Apply a small amount of the ceramic coating to a suede applicator. Apply to the glass using overlapping circular motions to ensure 100% coverage. In Australian summer conditions, work on half the windscreen at a time to prevent the product from drying too quickly.

Allow the first layer to dwell for the manufacturer's specified time (usually 5-15 minutes). The coating will form a slight 'haze.' Do not touch the glass during this period as the polymers are cross-linking with the silica in the glass.

For windscreens, a second layer is recommended to ensure durability against wiper friction. Apply the second layer directly over the haze of the first. This 'fills in' any microscopic gaps left during the first pass.

Using a fresh, short-pile microfibre towel, buff away the haze. This requires some 'elbow grease' as the product bonds. If the haze is difficult to remove, lightly dampen a small section of the towel with the coating itself to reactivate the residue, then buff immediately.

Use a bright LED torch or the sun's reflection to check for 'high spots' (darker, oily-looking patches). Buff these out immediately. Once the coating cures, these become much harder to remove.

Keep the glass completely dry for at least 3 to 12 hours (refer to product label). This is crucial in coastal areas where morning dew can contain salt, which can ruin the bond if it settles on an uncured coating.