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Exterior Care intermediate 4 min read

A Pro's Checklist for a Safely Cleaned Engine Bay

Most car owners make this harder than it needs to be. Here's the straightforward approach that actually works—no fluff, no upselling.

Don't just blast your engine with a pressure washer and hope for the best. Follow this checklist to clear out that Aussie red dust and salt spray without frying your car's brain.

B"W
Barry "Bazza" Williams Product Reviewer
| Updated: 6 March 2026
What You'll Learn
A Pro's Checklist for a Safely Cleaned Engine Bay

Aussie Conditions

Australian conditions are tougher than most—intense UV, red dust, coastal salt, and 40°C summers. European car care advice often doesn't cut it here.
Quick Summary

Look, I've seen too many blokes ruin alternators because they got a bit trigger-happy with the hose. After 15 years in the trade, I reckon a clean engine bay isn't just about looks, it's about spotting leaks before they strand you in the middle of nowhere. This is the exact workflow I use for my mobile detailing clients, tailored for our harsh conditions.

01

A Quick Yarn Before You Start

I once had a customer bring in a LandCruiser that had been living near the coast in WA. The engine bay was a nightmare of salt crust and red dirt. He tried to 'she'll be right' it with a high-pressure wand at the local servo and ended up with a $2k bill for a new ECU. Don't be that guy. Take your time, cover the electrics, and use the right gear. To be honest, I prefer Bowden's Own 'Orange Agent' for this, it's Aussie made and cuts through grime without being too nasty on your lungs.
02

The Gear You'll Actually Need

What You'll Need

0/8
All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) or Engine Degreaser — Bowden's Orange Agent or Meguiar's Super Degreaser are my go-tos.
Soft-bristle detailing brushes — Get a pack of various sizes to reach into the tight bits.
Microfibre towels (The 'retired' ones) — Don't use your good paint towels; they'll get filthy.
Aluminium foil or plastic cling wrap — Crucial for covering up the sensitive electrical bits.
Pressure washer or garden hose — If using a pressure washer, keep your distance!
Compressed air or a leaf blower — The best way to get water out of spark plug valleys.
Plastic & Rubber Protectant — Something like 303 Aerospace or Autoglym Vinyl & Rubber Care.
A stiff scrubbing brush — Only for the heavy metal components, never the plastic.

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03

Pre-Start Checklist (Don't skip these)

What You'll Need

0/4
Is the engine cool to the touch? — If it's too hot, the degreaser will flash dry and leave nasty spots.
Is the battery disconnected? — Not always necessary, but highly recommended if you're a bit messy.
Are the sensitive bits covered? — Cover the alternator, air intake, fuse box, and any exposed sensors.
Have you checked for loose caps? — Make sure the oil dipstick and all reservoir caps are tight.
04

The Cleaning Process

Tap each step to mark complete
01

Dry Debris Removal

Use your leaf blower or a vacuum to get rid of dry leaves, dead bugs, and loose red dust before getting anything wet.

02

Cover Up

Wrap your alternator and intake in foil. I learned this the hard way on a black Commodore, water in the wrong spot causes a week of headaches.

03

Apply Degreaser

Spray from the bottom up. Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes, but don't let it dry. If it's a 40-degree day, work in small sections.

04

Agitate with Brushes

Use your detailing brushes to work the cleaner into the grime. Pay extra attention to the strut towers and firewall where salt and dust collect.

05

Gentle Rinse

Rinse off using low pressure. Avoid spraying directly into electrical connectors or the radiator fins. You're rinsing, not water-blasting.

06

Dry Thoroughly

This is the most important part. Use compressed air or a leaf blower to blast water out of every nook, cranny, and electrical plug.

07

Protect and Dress

Apply a water-based dressing to the plastic and rubber. It makes it look brand new and helps prevent the Aussie sun from cracking your hoses.

05

Final Inspection Checklist

What You'll Need

0/4
Remove all foil/plastic covers — I've forgotten these before, the smell of melting plastic isn't great.
Check for standing water — Look deep near the spark plugs and the battery tray.
Start the engine — Let it run for 5-10 minutes to allow the heat to evaporate any remaining moisture.
Wipe down the underside of the bonnet — Don't forget the 'roof' of the engine bay! It usually holds heaps of dust.

Watch Out

NEVER use high pressure directly on the alternator or fuse box. Also, avoid 'engine shines' that are solvent-based; they're a massive fire risk on a hot Aussie summer day. Stick to water-based dressings, your missus will thank you for not making the garage smell like a chemical plant.

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