How to Add Thousands to Your Car's Resale Value

If you've been out west or even just parked near a construction site, that fine red dust gets everywhere. A standard wash won't touch it. I reckon the best way to shift it is a solid snow foam soak first. I'm a big fan of Bowden’s Own Snow Job. It clings to that grit and slides it off before you even touch the car with a mitt. I once had a customer bring in a white HiLux that looked permanently stained orange, two hits with a good foam and a soft brush in the door shuts made it look factory fresh again.

Bat and bird droppings in Australia are basically acid. If you've got etchings on the bonnet, a quick wash won't fix it. Give it a crack with a light finishing polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound on a microfiber applicator. Don't go nuts, you're just trying to level the surface so it doesn't catch the light. I made the mistake once of ignoring a bat stain on a black Commodore I was flipping, the buyer spotted it instantly and knocked 500 bucks off. Never again.

Nothing looks worse than grey, thirsty-looking rubber. But for the love of god, don't use that cheap, greasy tyre shine from the supermarket that flings all over the paint the moment you drive off. Use a water-based dressing like Chemical Guys VRP or Gtechniq T1. It gives a nice 'new' satin look rather than a 'cheap car yard' wet look. Trust me, it looks way more professional to a savvy buyer.

Yellow, foggy headlights scream 'I park this car in the sun and don't care about it'. If yours are looking a bit sad, use a dedicated restoration kit. Even a quick rub with some fine polish can clear them up enough for the photos. It makes the whole front end look five years younger instantly.