Wax vs Sealant: Picking the Right Protection for the Aussie Summer

Give the car a thorough wash using the two-bucket method. Use a strip-wash soap to remove any old protection. Make sure you get into the wheel arches and door jambs.

Spray an iron remover (like Bowden's Iron Deck) over the paint. If it turns purple, that's the iron particles from brake dust dissolving. Rinse it off thoroughly.

Run a clay bar over the wet paint using plenty of lubricant. This pulls out the embedded grit that a wash misses. Your paint should feel smooth as glass when you're done.

Use a dedicated microfiber drying towel or a blower. Any water dripping from a mirror later will ruin your sealant bond.

Wipe every panel down with an IPA solution. This removes any leftover oils or lubricants, leaving the clear coat 'naked' and ready for the product.

Never, and I mean never, apply these products in direct Aussie sunlight. The surface temperature of a black car can hit 70 degrees, which will flash-dry your product instantly and leave nasty streaks.

Apply a small amount of product to your foam applicator. You don't need much, about the size of three peas. Work it into the pad so it's evenly damp.

Work one panel at a time, or even half a panel (like the bonnet). This keeps things manageable.

If using wax, apply in small, overlapping circular motions. You want a thin, even layer. If you can see thick white goop, you've used way too much.

For sealants, I prefer a cross-hatch pattern (up and down, then side to side). This ensures 100% coverage because sealants are often harder to see on the paint.

Wait for the product to haze (usually 5-10 minutes depending on humidity). Swipe a clean finger through it; if it smears, wait longer. If it wipes away clean, it's ready.

Use a clean, folded microfibre towel. Use light pressure to buff off the residue. Don't scrub at it!

Keep flipping your towel to a clean side. A loaded towel will just move residue around instead of removing it.

Use your detailing brush to flick out any dried wax from around window trim or badges. It looks amateur if you leave white crusty bits everywhere.

If you want a second layer, you must wait. Wax usually needs 2-3 hours to set. Sealants often need 12-24 hours to fully cross-link (cure) before you can add more or get it wet.

Use a torch or the sun (now that it's buffed off) to check for high spots or streaks.

Keep the car out of the rain and away from the sprinklers for at least 12 hours. This is the hardest part, especially if you've got a garage full of kids' bikes.