The Ultimate Red Dust Decontamination and Removal Guide

Never attempt red dust removal on a hot surface. In 40°C heat, chemicals will flash-dry instantly, causing permanent etching. Ensure the vehicle has been in full shade for at least 3 hours. The panels must be cool to the touch (ideally below 25°C). Use a marquee if a garage is unavailable.

Before introducing water, use a soft-bristled detailing brush and a portable blower or compressed air. Gently dislodge loose dust from window rubbers, door handles, and light housings. Introducing water to heavy dust creates a 'mud paste' that can act as an abrasive during the wash.

Position a chassis washer or an angled pressure washer wand. Red dust accumulates in the 'pockets' of the chassis rails. This stage requires high-volume water to ensure the abrasive minerals are flushed out before you begin working on the delicate paintwork above.

Prepare your snow foam at a 1:9 ratio (100ml product to 900ml water). If using a concentrated APC for the lower sills, dilute to 10:1 for light dust or 4:1 for heavy mud/dust cakes. Using precise ratios ensures chemical effectiveness without stripping trim dyes.

Starting from the bottom and working up, rinse the vehicle to remove 80% of loose debris. Pay extreme attention to wheel arches, mud flaps, and the underside of the side steps. Use a 25-degree nozzle tip held 30cm from the surface to avoid forcing dust into seals.

Apply a thick layer of pH-neutral snow foam. Allow it to dwell for 5-7 minutes, but do not let it dry. The surfactants in the foam encapsulate the sharp silica particles, lifting them away from the paint surface. You will see the foam turn orange/brown as it pulls the dust.

While the foam is dwelling, use a soft detailing brush to agitate emblems, window surrounds, and grilles. These are the primary collection points for red dust. Agitating while lubricated by foam prevents the 'sandpaper effect' of dry dust movement.

Using a high-lubricity car shampoo and a microfiber mitt, wash the car from top to bottom. Use very light pressure. Rinse the mitt in a dedicated 'rinse bucket' after every panel to ensure you aren't rubbing captured red dust back into the clear coat.

Dry the car slightly (it should be damp, not dripping). Spray a dedicated Iron Remover liberally over the paint. Wait 3-5 minutes. The chemical will react with the iron oxides in the red dust, turning deep purple. This 'bleeding' effect indicates the iron is being dissolved.

For heavy staining, use a damp microfiber applicator to gently work the purple-reacting chemical into the surface. This helps the chemical penetrate deeper into the pores of the paint where the red dust is most stubborn.

Thoroughly rinse the iron remover. Ensure no purple residue remains in crevices, as these chemicals are acidic or highly alkaline and can cause spotting if left to dry. Rinse until the water runs completely clear.

If the paint still feels 'sandpapery' or gritty, use a clay bar with plenty of clay lubricant. Move the bar in straight lines with zero pressure. The clay will grab the remaining embedded silica and iron particles. Fold the clay frequently to expose a clean surface.

Open all doors and the bonnet. Use a damp microfiber and APC to wipe away dust from the seals. Red dust in door jambs often holds moisture, leading to hidden rust. Do not pressure wash the engine directly; use a 'mist and wipe' approach.

Perform a final rinse using a 'sheeting' method (hose without a nozzle) to allow water to run off. Dry the vehicle using a high-quality 1000gsm microfiber drying towel or a dedicated car dryer/blower to remove water from hidden gaps.

Because the decontamination process strips old waxes, apply a high-SiO2 ceramic sealant or wax. Given the UV levels in January, a ceramic-based sealant provides the best sacrificial layer against future dust bonding and sun damage.