The Ultimate Interior Detailing Masterclass

Never detail a hot interior. Park the vehicle in a shaded, well-ventilated area (like a carport or garage). Open all doors and the boot to allow the cabin temperature to equalise with the ambient air. If the dash is hot to the touch, the cleaning chemicals will flash (evaporate) too quickly, leading to streaking and potential chemical burns on sensitive plastics.

Remove all floor mats, rubbish, and personal items. Use compressed air or a cordless blower to dislodge dust from deep crevices, under seats, and inside air vents. In Australia, red dust settles in the 'nooks and crannies' of the dash; blowing this out now prevents it from turning into mud later when liquid cleaners are applied.

Prepare your cleaning solutions according to the level of soiling. For maintenance, a 1:10 dilution of All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) is usually sufficient. For heavy outback grime or salt-crusted carpets, a 1:4 ratio may be required. Decant into labelled spray bottles to avoid cross-contamination and ensure you have enough clean microfibre towels staged for each zone (Dry, Damp, Dirty).

Perform a 'touch test' on all surfaces. Distinguish between real leather, synthetic leather (MB-Tex/Sensatec), and vinyl. Identify sensitive areas like Alcantara, unsealed wood grain, or 'soft-touch' plastics common in European cars, which can peel if treated with aggressive solvents or high heat.

Start from the top to prevent gravity-led drips from ruining cleaned surfaces. Lightly mist a low-pile microfibre with a mild cleaner and gently wipe the headliner. Avoid saturating the fabric, as this can dissolve the adhesive backing, causing the headliner to sag—a common issue in high-heat environments. Use linear motions rather than circular to maintain fabric texture.

Apply your pH-neutral cleaner to a soft-bristled brush, not directly to the dash. Agitate the cleaner into a light foam to lift oils and dust. Use a dedicated ultra-soft brush for the instrument cluster clear plastic to avoid 'swirl marks'. Wipe away residue immediately with a clean, damp microfibre followed by a dry one.

Use a small detailing brush and compressed air in tandem. Spray the brush with cleaner, work it into the louvres of the vents, and then use the air to blow out the liquid and trapped dust. This is the only way to effectively remove the fine red dust that accumulates in Australian interior components.

Focus on the lower sections where red mud and salt often accumulate. For plastic scuff plates, a slightly stiffer brush can be used. Ensure you clean the rubber door seals (weatherstripping) with a damp cloth; these seals dry out and crack in the sun, leading to wind noise and leaks if not maintained.

Apply a dedicated leather cleaner. Work in 40x40cm sections using a foaming dispenser. Agitate with a leather brush to pull dirt out of the 'grain'. If the leather looks shiny, it is dirty (body oils). Clean leather should have a matte, 'new' appearance. Wipe with a white towel to monitor the amount of soil being removed.

For fabric seats, spray an upholstery cleaner and agitate. If salt spray or sweat stains are present, use a wet/dry vacuum or an extractor. Ensure you do not over-wet the foam padding underneath, as this can lead to mould and mildew growth in humid coastal conditions. Use a fan to assist drying if necessary.

Australian sand and red dust sink deep into carpet fibres. Use a drill brush attachment (soft/medium) to vibrate the sand to the surface while vacuuming simultaneously. This mechanical agitation is significantly more effective than vacuuming alone. Repeat until no more grit is heard entering the vacuum nozzle.

Clean the interior glass last to remove any chemical overspray. Use a two-towel method: one towel to apply the glass cleaner (ammonia-free to protect window tint) and a second, dry 'waffle-weave' towel to buff to a streak-free finish. In summer, work quickly as glass cleaners evaporate almost instantly.

Apply a high-quality UV blocking protectant to all vinyl and plastic surfaces. Spread evenly with a foam applicator and let it dwell for 3-5 minutes before buffing off the excess. This creates a sacrificial layer that absorbs UV radiation instead of your dashboard. Ensure the product is 'dry to the touch' to avoid attracting more dust.

On modern coated leathers, apply a 'Leather Guard' or sealant. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that prevents dye transfer (from jeans) and stops body oils from penetrating the hide. For older, uncoated leather, use a cream conditioner to restore suppleness lost to heat evaporation.

Clean the rubber or metal pedals using a stiff brush and APC. Ensure they are completely dry and free of any slippery dressing before driving. This is a critical safety step, especially if you have been using silicon-based products elsewhere in the cabin.

Inspect the cabin with a high-lumen torch to check for missed dust or streaks. If a 'musty' smell persists from the AC (common in humid summers), use an antibacterial 'AC Bomb' or fogger to kill bacteria on the evaporator core before replacing the cabin air filter.