The Ultimate Guide to Red Dust Removal and Paint Decontamination (Jan 2026)

Never work on a vehicle that is hot to the touch. In Australian summer conditions, the metal can reach 70°C+, which will cause chemicals to flash-dry instantly, leading to permanent etching. Move the vehicle to a shaded area or wait until evening. Use an infrared thermometer if available; ideally, the surface should be under 30°C.

Before applying any water, use a high-powered leaf blower or compressed air to blow out loose red dust from crevices, door mirrors, and weather stripping. Adding water to heavy red dust creates a 'mud slurry' that can be harder to remove from tight gaps. Focus on the base of the windscreen and the fuel filler housing.

Red dust accumulates heavily in the chassis rails and suspension components. Use an underbody water broom or a high-pressure nozzle to flush these areas for at least 10 minutes. Continue flushing until the run-off water changes from orange/brown to clear. This prevents dust from dripping back onto clean panels later.

Prepare your wash buckets and foam cannon. For red dust, a slightly stronger dilution of snow foam is recommended to break down the static bond of the silt. Ensure you have at least 5-6 clean microfiber mitts ready to avoid cross-contamination between panels.

Apply a thick layer of alkaline snow foam to the dry vehicle. Starting from the bottom and working up ensures the chemical has maximum dwell time on the dirtiest areas. Let it dwell for 5-8 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. The alkalinity helps break the electrostatic bond of the red dust particles.

Rinse the foam thoroughly starting from the top down. Use a 25-degree nozzle tip and keep it 30cm from the paint. Pay specific attention to window seals and trim where red dust hides. The goal here is to remove 90% of the visible dirt without touching the paint with a mitt.

Spray a dedicated iron remover liberally over the entire vehicle. Red dust is high in iron oxide; the chemical will react with these particles, turning purple/red as it dissolves them. Leave for 3-5 minutes. In 40°C heat, mist the panels with a light water spray to keep the chemical active and prevent drying.

While the iron remover is active, use a soft detailing brush to agitate around emblems, door handles, and window rubbers. This helps the chemical penetrate deep-seated dust that a pressure washer cannot reach. You will see purple streaks emerging from behind badges; this is the red dust being chemically dissolved.

Rinse the vehicle extremely thoroughly. Iron removers are acidic or pH-neutral but contain surfactants that must be completely removed. Ensure all purple run-off is gone from the driveway as well, as it can stain some concrete finishes.

Using the two-bucket method (one with soapy water, one with plain rinse water), wash the car from top to bottom. Use a high-quality microfiber mitt and very light pressure. The previous steps have removed the abrasive grit, so this step focuses on removing the remaining 'traffic film' and any leftover dust residue.

If the paint still feels 'gritty' to the touch after washing, use a clay bar or mitt with plenty of lubricant (soapy water works well). Glide the clay over the surface in straight lines. The clay will pick up particles embedded in the clear coat. Check the clay frequently; if it looks orange, fold it to a clean side.

Rinse the vehicle one last time. Remove the nozzle from your hose and use a steady stream of water to 'flood' the panels. This 'sheeting' technique allows the water to pull itself off the surface, leaving fewer beads and making the drying process much faster and safer.

Pat-dry the vehicle using a dedicated large-format microfiber towel. Do not 'rub' the paint. Use a portable blower to purge water (and any remaining dust specks) from mirror housings, light clusters, and door jambs. In Australian summer, speed is essential here to prevent calcium water spots.

Apply a high-quality ceramic sealant. For Australian conditions, look for products with high UV inhibitors. Apply to one panel at a time using a microfiber applicator, then buff off immediately. This creates a hydrophobic, slick surface that prevents red dust from 'biting' into the paint during your next trip.

Open all doors and the tailgate. Use a damp microfiber to wipe down the inner seals. Red dust often bypasses outer seals; if left, it acts like sandpaper against the inner paintwork every time the door vibrates during driving. Apply a rubber protectant to keep seals supple in the heat.

Red dust can cause micro-scratches on glass, especially under wiper blades. Clean the glass with an ammonia-free cleaner. If staining is visible, use a dedicated glass polish. Ensure wiper blades are wiped clean of all orange residue to prevent scratching the next time it rains.