The Ultimate Guide to Professional Wheel Decontamination and Cleaning

Never apply chemicals to a hot wheel. After driving, wheels can exceed 70°C. Touch the tyre sidewall first; if it feels hot, wait at least 30-45 minutes. Applying cold water or chemicals to a hot rotor can cause warping or cracking of the ceramic/metal components. Work in the shade or early morning.

Determine if your wheels are clear-coated, matte/satin, or bare polished aluminium. Most modern vehicles use clear-coated alloy. However, if you have aftermarket polished rims without a clear coat, you must avoid acid-based or high-alkaline cleaners, as they will instantly cloud the metal.

Prepare your wheel bucket with 10L of water and 30ml of high-lubricity car soap. If using a concentrated wheel cleaner, dilute it according to the manufacturer's 'heavy' or 'maintenance' specs (usually 1:3). Place all your brushes in the bucket to soften the bristles before they touch the rims.

Wheel cleaners often contain mercaptoacetate (the 'rotten egg' smell). Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. In the Australian heat, ensure you are hydrated and working in a well-ventilated area, as chemical fumes are more volatile at higher temperatures.

Inspect for heavy mud or red dust. Rinse the wheel, tyre, and wheel arch thoroughly with a high-pressure stream to remove loose grit. This prevents you from dragging large particles across the finish during the agitation stage. Aim the water into the barrel to flush out hidden debris.

Apply your APC or dedicated tyre cleaner to the rubber sidewall while it is wet. Let it dwell for 60 seconds. You will see a brown liquid (antiozonants and dirt) bleeding off. This 'blooming' is common in high-UV areas. Scrub vigorously with your stiff tyre brush until the suds turn white.

Spray the iron remover/wheel cleaner liberally over the entire wheel face and into the barrel. In 40°C heat, work on one wheel at a time to prevent the product from drying. If it begins to dry, mist it lightly with water to reactivate the chemicals.

Allow the product to dwell for 2-4 minutes. You will observe a chemical reaction where the liquid turns deep purple or red. This is the iron particles being dissolved into a water-soluble state. Do not let this liquid dry into a crust, as it can be difficult to remove from porous surfaces.

Insert your long-reach microfibre brush into the barrel. Scrub in a back-and-forth motion, rotating the brush to cover the entire circumference. This is where the most corrosive brake dust resides. Ensure you reach behind the brake calipers, as this is a common 'miss' area for amateurs.

Use your soft boar's hair brush to agitate the wheel face. Start from the top and work down. Pay close attention to the 'pockets' where the spokes meet the rim and the lug nut holes. Use circular motions to lift the emulsified dirt and iron.

Use a smaller detailing brush to clean inside the lug nut recesses. Brake dust often cakes in these deep holes. Clean around the valve stem carefully, ensuring you don't dislodge any sensor caps (TPMS). This level of detail separates a professional job from a standard wash.

Rinse the wheel thoroughly, starting from the top and working down. Ensure you flush all the purple residue out of the lug nut holes and from behind the spokes. Use plenty of water to ensure no chemical residue remains on the brake rotors or pads.

If your vehicle has painted calipers (common on performance cars), give them a quick pass with a soft microfibre mitt and the soapy water from your bucket. This prevents 'burning' of the caliper paint from long-term brake dust exposure.

Remove the nozzle from your hose and let the water flow over the wheel. This 'sheeting' method helps remove the majority of the standing water, reducing the time needed for towel drying and preventing water spots in the sun.

Dry the wheel completely using a dedicated microfibre towel. If you have an air blower (or a leaf blower), use it to blow water out of the lug nut holes and the bead of the tyre. Standing water in these areas can cause 'runs' later, which attract dust immediately.

Apply a wheel sealant or ceramic spray. This creates a hydrophobic barrier. In coastal areas, this is your primary defence against salt spray. Buff off the residue with a clean cloth. This step ensures that the next time you wash, 90% of the dirt will come off with a simple rinse.