The Ultimate Beach and Coastal Decontamination Guide

Never apply cold water or chemicals to a vehicle that has just completed a long highway or beach run. Allow the engine, brake rotors, and exhaust to cool for at least 45 minutes. Thermal shock can warp brake discs or crack sensitive sensors, while high heat causes cleaning chemicals to flash-dry, leaving permanent streaks on the paintwork.

Position the vehicle on a concrete pad with adequate drainage. Avoid working on grass, as the salt runoff and concentrated cleaning agents will kill the lawn. If possible, work in a shaded area or under a carport to prevent the 40°C sun from drying the products prematurely. Ensure your pressure washer hose is untangled and reaches all four corners of the vehicle.

Prepare your salt neutraliser and snow foam. For heavy beach exposure, mix the salt neutraliser at a ratio of 1:50 in a pump sprayer. If using a foam cannon, follow the manufacturer's specific ratio (usually 100ml product to 900ml water). Accurate measurements ensure the chemistry effectively breaks the salt bonds without stripping existing waxes.

Before applying any water, use a soft-bristled brush or low-pressure air to flick away loose, dry sand from exterior vents, wiper cowls, and door seals. Adding water to dry sand creates a 'slurry' that can migrate deeper into tight crevices where it becomes much harder to remove later.

Begin with the underbody. Use an angled wand or underbody broom to flood the chassis. Spend at least 15 minutes here. Focus on the 'pockets' where sand accumulates: top of the fuel tank, inside the chassis rails, and behind the wheel arch liners. You should continue flushing until the water running out is completely clear of grit and brown tint.

Insert a chassis flushing hose into the factory drainage holes of the frame. Move the hose back and forth. In Australian 4x4s, sand often packs into these rails, holding moisture against the bare metal inside. This is the single most important step for preventing long-term structural rot.

Apply an iron-remover or dedicated wheel cleaner to all four wheels. Salt accelerates galvanic corrosion between alloy wheels and steel hubs. Use a soft brush to agitate the inner barrels and brake calipers. Rinse thoroughly, ensuring no chemical residue remains in the lug nut holes.

Apply your diluted salt neutraliser to the entire vehicle, starting from the bottom and working up. Include the engine bay (avoiding direct high pressure on electronics). Let the product dwell for 5-10 minutes. This chemical reaction is essential to 'unlock' the sodium chloride ions from the paint's pores.

Rinse the neutraliser off using a 25-degree nozzle tip on your pressure washer. Keep the nozzle at least 30cm from the paint. Focus on window seals, door handles, and light housings where salt crystals grow as water evaporates.

Cover the vehicle in a thick layer of alkaline snow foam. This encapsulates remaining fine dust and salt particles. In summer heat, you may need to mist the foam with water to keep it wet. The foam's 'cling time' is vital for breaking down the static bond of red dust and coastal grime.

Using the two-bucket method, wash the vehicle from the roof down. Use very light pressure. If the mitt feels 'gritty', stop and rinse it in the grit-guard bucket immediately. This step removes the 'traffic film' that pressure washing alone cannot touch.

Gently rinse the engine bay with low pressure. Salt spray often enters through the grille and settles on the radiator fins and electrical connectors. Use a damp microfibre to wipe down plastic covers and hoses. This prevents the white 'chalky' oxidation common on aluminium engine components.

Open all doors, the tailgate, and the bonnet. Use a damp cloth to wipe away sand and salt from the rubber seals. If sand is left on these seals, it acts like sandpaper every time the door moves, eventually wearing through the paint to the bare metal.

Perform a final slow rinse using a 'sheeting' technique (removing the nozzle from the hose). This allows the water to carry away any remaining surfactants. If your local water is 'hard' (high mineral content), use a deionising filter to prevent water spotting in the 40°C heat.

Use an air blower to purge water from every crevice: mirror housings, fuel filler caps, and trim pieces. This prevents 'salt tracks' from appearing later as the vehicle vibrates during driving. Drying the vehicle quickly is essential to prevent mineral deposits from forming on the clear coat.

Clean the glass with an ammonia-free cleaner. Apply a UV-protectant to all exterior rubber and plastic trim. Australian UV will dry out these components rapidly after they have been stripped of oils by salt and alkaline cleaners.