The Professional Guide to Safely Removing Tree Sap

Never attempt sap removal on a hot panel. If the car has been sitting in the Australian sun, move it to a shaded, well-ventilated area for at least 2 hours. Use an infrared thermometer if available; the panel should be below 30°C. Attempting removal on hot paint increases the risk of the solvents flash-drying and staining the clear coat.

Perform a thorough two-bucket wash using a high-alkaline 'strip' soap (e.g., NV Snow or Bowden’s Own Mega Wash). This removes loose dust, salt, and bird droppings. This is critical because any grit trapped around the sap will cause swirl marks during the removal process. Rinse thoroughly and dry the affected areas.

Inspect the vehicle under a high-lumen LED torch. Sap often appears as small, amber-coloured domes or flat, clear 'ghost' spots. Identify if the sap is 'fresh' (sticky) or 'calcified' (hard and brittle). This determines whether you need more dwell time with chemicals or mechanical agitation with a clay bar.

If using pure IPA, dilute it to a 50:50 ratio with distilled water if the sap is on plastic trim. For paint, 70% neat is usually safe for spot treatment. Ensure all spray bottles are labelled and microfibre cloths are inspected for any trapped debris from previous uses.

Apply a small amount of Tar and Sap remover or IPA directly onto a microfibre cloth, not the paint. Press the soaked cloth against the sap deposit and hold it there for 60 seconds. This 'dwell time' allows the solvent to penetrate the resin's outer shell. You will see the amber colour start to bleed into the cloth.

For thick sap deposits, do not scrub. Use the microfibre to 'pinch' the softened sap and lift it vertically away from the paint. Scrubbing back and forth at this stage will spread the dissolved resin across a larger surface area, making the job significantly harder and increasing the risk of marring.

Apply a second round of solvent to any remaining residue. If the sap is stubborn, spray the solvent directly onto the spot and let it sit for 2-3 minutes, ensuring it does not dry. If you are working in 35°C+ heat, you may need to re-mist the area to keep it wet.

Once the bulk of the sap is gone, a 'ghosting' or texture often remains. Liberally spray clay lubricant over the area. Using a fine-grade clay bar, glide it over the spot using zero pressure. The clay will 'grab' the remaining microscopic sap particles. Continue until the clay glides silently and smoothly.

After every 30cm x 30cm area, fold and knead your clay bar to reveal a fresh, clean surface. This is vital in Australia where red dust can be trapped in the sap; if you don't knead the clay, you are essentially sanding your car with the trapped dust.

Wipe the area with a clean microfibre and a light mist of IPA. This removes the oily residue left behind by the tar remover and the clay lubricant, allowing you to see the true condition of the paint. Inspect for any etching (dull spots in the shape of the sap).

If the sap has left a dull mark, the acid has eaten into the clear coat. You will need a light finishing polish (e.g., Scholl Concepts S40) and a microfibre applicator pad. Work the polish in circular motions for 30-45 seconds to level the edges of the etching and restore gloss.

Rinse the treated panels thoroughly with deionised water. Solvents left in panel gaps or around rubber seals can cause premature drying and cracking of the rubber over time, especially when exposed to high UV.

If sap is on the windscreen, you can use a new plastic razor blade at a 45-degree angle to scrape the bulk off. Follow up with 0000-grade steel wool and glass cleaner for a perfectly smooth finish. Do not use steel wool on the paint.

Because the solvents and clay bar have stripped all wax and sealants, the paint is now 'naked' and vulnerable to the sun. Apply a high-quality Sio2 sealant or Carnauba wax immediately. For Australian summers, a ceramic-based spray sealant (like Gyeon CanCoat) offers the best heat and UV resistance.