The Professional Guide to Detailing Brush Selection and Technique

In Australian summer, panel temperatures can exceed 70°C. Use an infrared thermometer or the back of your hand to ensure the surface is cool to the touch. Never apply chemicals or brushes to hot surfaces, as this causes rapid evaporation and chemical etching.

Thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a pressure washer (set to 1500-2000 PSI) to remove loose red dust and grit. This 'touchless' phase is critical; if you start brushing while heavy grit is present, the brush will act like sandpaper, scouring the paintwork.

Prepare your 'brush bucket' with a high-lubricity soap. For trim, use a 1:10 dilution of All Purpose Cleaner (APC). For wheels, use a dedicated iron fallout remover. Ensure you have a separate bucket of clean water specifically for rinsing the brushes between every few strokes.

Inspect every brush for trapped debris from previous sessions. Run your fingers through the bristles to ensure they are soft and pliable. A single grain of sand trapped in a boar's hair brush can cause permanent damage to a clear coat.

Begin with the dirtiest area. Insert your long-reach barrel brush into the wheel, moving in a back-and-forth motion. Ensure the brush is fully lubricated. This removes brake dust and road salt that accumulates behind the spokes, which can cause 'pitting' if left unaddressed.

Using a medium boar's hair brush, work the cleaning solution into the lug nut holes in a circular motion. This is a primary collection point for red dust. Use the same brush to reach the face of the brake calipers, ensuring you don't use excessive pressure.

Switch to an ultra-soft synthetic brush. Apply a small amount of foam to the badge. Use light, 'stippling' (tapping) motions rather than aggressive scrubbing. This lifts dirt from the tight channels between letters without snagging the edges of the adhesive-backed chrome.

Run a thin detailing brush along the rubber window seals and the 'gutter' areas of the roof. Australian UV often dries out these seals; removing the abrasive dust prevents the rubber from cracking and ensures a better seal against tropical rain.

Modern Australian SUVs have complex plastic grilles. Use a soft-to-medium brush to work into each honeycomb cell. This is where bugs and organic matter decompose. The enzymes in dead insects are acidic and will eat through plastic coatings if not agitated and rinsed.

Open the fuel door—an often forgotten area. Red dust accumulates here heavily. Use a general-purpose brush to clean around the cap and the drain hole. Ensure the drain hole is clear to prevent water pooling and subsequent rust inside the fender.

Use your softest synthetic brush only. These pillars are notoriously soft and will scratch if you look at them wrong. Use plenty of lubrication and move the brush in vertical lines, never circles, to minimize visible marring.

Using a dedicated 'dirty' brush, agitate the grease and dust in the door hinges. This prevents the 'gritty' sound when opening doors and removes salt that enters the cabin frame in coastal regions.

Apply a stiff-bristled brush to the tyre sidewall. Use a dedicated tyre cleaner. Scrub until the foam turns from brown to white. This removes 'blooming' (antiozonants) and prepares the rubber to better absorb UV-protectant dressings.

Rinse the entire vehicle from the top down. Pay close attention to the areas you brushed to ensure no soap residue or loosened grit remains in the crevices. Use a bright LED torch to inspect the gaps for any missed red dust.