The Professional Guide to Detailing Brush Selection and Application (Jan 2026)

Ensure the vehicle is out of direct sunlight and the panels are cool to the touch (below 30°C). In Australian summer, applying chemicals to hot surfaces via a brush will lead to instant flash-drying and chemical etching. Use an infrared thermometer if available.

Before introducing any liquids, use a soft, dry synthetic brush or compressed air to dislodge loose red dust from window seals and badges. Adding water to heavy red dust creates a 'mud paste' that can be more abrasive if scrubbed immediately.

Prepare your cleaning solutions in 500ml spray bottles. For Australian conditions, a 10:1 ratio of APC is usually sufficient for dust, while a 5:1 ratio may be needed for heavy bug guts or coastal salt crusting on lower sills.

Inspect every brush for 'hooked' bristles or trapped grit from previous sessions. Run your fingers through the filaments over a white towel; if any debris falls out, deep-clean the brush in warm water and pH-neutral soap before starting.

Apply a pH-neutral snow foam or APC to a natural boar's hair brush. Work in a circular motion around the edges of the vehicle emblems. The goal is to let the bristles reach behind the lettering to lift salt and limestone deposits common in regional areas.

Spray a small amount of cleaner onto the brush rather than the car to prevent overspray. Run the brush along the rubber seals. This is a critical area for red dust accumulation which, if left, will eventually scratch the glass when the windows are rolled down.

This area often accumulates spider webs and fuel overflow. Use a medium-sized boar's hair brush with a degreaser. Agitate the hinges and the area around the cap, then rinse thoroughly with a low-pressure stream of water.

Using a dedicated wheel brush, agitate the lug nut cavities where brake dust and road grime bake on due to high heat. Ensure the brush has no metal components to avoid gouging the wheel finish.

Modern Australian SUVs often feature complex plastic grilles. Use a long-bristle synthetic brush to reach into the mesh. Work from the top down to ensure gravity assists in moving the loosened contaminants away from the radiator.

Switch to an ultra-soft synthetic brush. Close the vents to provide a flat surface, then 'flick' the dust out. For deep-seated red dust, use a vacuum nozzle 2cm away from the brush to catch the particles as they are dislodged.

Never spray liquid directly onto electronics. Spray the ultra-soft brush, then gently agitate around buttons and the gear shifter. This prevents liquid from seeping into the circuit boards while removing skin oils and dust.

Use a larger boar's hair brush to tackle the grease and dust in door shuts. This area is often neglected but is the primary entry point for dust into the cabin. Rinse with a damp microfibre cloth rather than a hose to avoid flooding the interior.

Focus on the plastic covers using a stiff-bristled brush and an engine-specific degreaser. Avoid sensitive electrical connectors. Agitation here is key to breaking the bond of heat-baked oil and dust.

Use your stiffest nylon brush. Apply a dedicated tyre cleaner and scrub until the foam turns from brown to white. This removes 'blooming' (antiozonants) and old dressings, ensuring new protectants bond correctly for UV protection.

Use an old, dedicated brush with metal polish on stainless steel tips. The brush helps reach the inner lip where carbon buildup is heaviest. Do not use this brush on any other part of the car thereafter.

Conduct a final rinse of all exterior brushed areas. Check for 'white residue' in crevices, which indicates dried soap. If found, re-agitate with a wet brush and rinse immediately.