The Complete Guide to Neutralising and Repairing Bird Dropping Damage

Never attempt to remove dried contaminants from a hot panel. Move the vehicle into a shaded garage or under a carport. Allow the surface temperature to drop below 30°C. If the panel is too hot to touch comfortably with the back of your hand, it is too hot for chemical application, as the cleaners will flash-dry and cause secondary staining.

Identify the type of dropping. Bat droppings (guano) are significantly more acidic and often contain hard fruit seeds that act like sandpaper. Large bird droppings may contain small stones used for digestion. This assessment determines how much lubrication is required to lift the mass without dragging it across the clear coat.

Prepare your cleaning solutions. If using a concentrated bug remover, dilute it according to the manufacturer's 'heavy-duty' ratio (typically 1:5 or 1:10). Ensure your IPA solution is precisely measured; a concentration higher than 25% can soften some sensitive clear coats in summer temperatures.

Don your nitrile gloves and eye protection. Biological waste, particularly from flying foxes (bats), can contain pathogens. Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling any desiccated particles that may become airborne during the initial spray.

Generously spray the dropping with your bug remover or a high-lubricity quick detailer. Do not touch it yet. The goal is to rehydrate the organic matter. Allow the product to dwell for 3-5 minutes, ensuring it does not dry out. If it begins to dry, mist more product over the top.

For extremely stubborn, sun-baked droppings, soak a microfibre towel in warm (not boiling) water (approx. 50°C). Place the wet towel directly over the lubricated dropping. This creates a localized 'sauna' effect that softens the uric acid crystals without aggressive scrubbing.

Once softened, use a clean microfibre towel. Instead of wiping side-to-side, pinch the dropping and lift it vertically away from the paint. This minimizes the contact area and prevents abrasive seeds from being dragged across the surrounding clear coat, which causes deep scratches.

After the main mass is removed, a 'shadow' of residue often remains. Spray this area again with bug remover and use a fresh section of the microfibre towel to gently wipe in one direction only. Never use circular motions, as these trap grit in the weave and create swirl marks.

This is the most critical step. Even if the paint looks clean, microscopic acidic residue remains in the pores. Spray the area with your 15-20% IPA solution. This effectively neutralises the pH of the surface and halts the chemical etching process. Wipe dry with a clean, plush towel.

Rinse the treated area and surrounding panels with distilled water. This ensures no surfactants or loosened biological matter remain in the panel gaps or trim. In coastal areas, this also helps flush away any salt spray that may have settled during the process.

Dry the area completely and inspect the paint under a high-intensity LED light or direct sunlight. Look for 'etching' (a dullness or texture in the paint that looks like a topographical map). If the surface is smooth and clear, skip to the protection step. If it is textured, it requires correction.

For light 'wrinkling' caused by paint expansion, sometimes a heat gun (on low) or leaving the car in the sun can 'flow' the clear coat back into position. However, this is risky. A safer professional method is using a DA polisher with a fine finishing pad and a non-filling polish to level the microscopic edges of the etch.

Apply 3-4 pea-sized drops of finishing polish to a foam pad. Work a 30x30cm area over the etch using moderate pressure and slow arm speed. The goal is to remove 1-2 microns of clear coat to level the surface. Wipe with IPA to check progress. Stop as soon as the mark is invisible.

The cleaning and polishing process will have removed any existing wax or sealant. Apply a high-quality SiO2-based sealant or ceramic detailer to the area. This provides a sacrificial layer that is more resistant to acid than the bare clear coat, buying you more time if the vehicle is hit again.