10 min read 6 sections
Paint Protection intermediate

The Complete Guide to Deep Cleaning and Protecting Door Jambs

A technical manual for restoring and protecting door shuts, hinges, and sills from red dust, salt air, and UV degradation in extreme heat.

Updated: 23 January 2026
The Complete Guide to Deep Cleaning and Protecting Door Jambs
AI Summary

This guide provides a professional-grade workflow for detailing vehicle door jambs, pillars, and hinge assemblies.

01

Why Door Jamb Detailing is Critical in the Australian Climate

In Australia, door jambs are more than just aesthetic transitions; they are critical collection points for environmental contaminants that can lead to long-term structural and aesthetic failure. During the peak of summer, ambient temperatures exceeding 40°C cause metal panels to expand, while intense UV radiation accelerates the oxidation of factory clear coats in the jambs, which are often applied thinner than exterior panels. For those living in coastal regions like the Gold Coast or Perth, salt spray infiltrates these gaps, sitting in the moisture-retaining recesses of the hinges and causing premature 'tea staining' or galvanic corrosion. Similarly, for regional drivers, the pervasive red dust of the interior acts as an abrasive paste when mixed with factory grease, grinding away at door checks and hinge pins every time the door is cycled. Neglecting these areas leads to rubber seal degradation, 'sticky' door operation, and unsightly staining that devalues the vehicle. By following this technical guide, you will transition these areas from grime-filled traps to protected, hydrophobic surfaces that repel dust and water, ensuring your vehicle's longevity and maintaining its resale value against the harsh local elements.

02

Required Equipment and Materials

Equipment Checklist

0/8
All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) or Dedicated Degreaser — Concentrated formula (e.g., Bilt Hamber Surfex HD or P&S Express). Dilute 1:10 for general grime or 1:5 for heavy grease.
Detailing Brushes (Boar's Hair and Synthetic) — A set of varying stiffness. Use soft synthetic for paintwork and stiff boar's hair for mechanical hinges.
Steam Cleaner or Pressure Washer with Short Trigger — Optional but highly recommended. A short-nose trigger gun allows for better maneuverability in tight shuts.
Microfibre Towels (300-400 GSM) — At least 5-8 dedicated 'utility' towels. These will get heavily soiled with grease and dirt.
Clay Bar or Clay Mitt (Fine Grade) — Essential for removing bonded contaminants like industrial fallout or stubborn sap.
Spray Sealant or Ceramic Detailer — High-heat resistant protection (e.g., Gyeon CanCoat or Bowden’s Own Bead Machine) to handle Australian sun.
Lithium Grease or Dry PTFE Lubricant — For re-lubricating hinge points after deep cleaning. Dry PTFE is better for dusty environments to avoid attracting grit.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) Wipe — 50/50 mix with distilled water to strip residue before applying protection.
03

Preparation and Setup

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01

Visual Inspection and Sensitivity Check

Open all doors, including the boot and bonnet. Inspect for sensitive electronics, exposed wiring looms (common in older 4x4s), and aftermarket rustproofing (black tar-like substances). Identify areas where grease is intentional versus where it is simply dirt-laden. Avoid high-pressure water near speaker grilles or exposed cabin electronics.

02

Environmental Control

Position the vehicle in a shaded area with a cool ambient temperature. Working on 40°C metal will cause chemicals to flash-dry instantly, leading to chemical etching and spotting. If working outdoors, ensure the wind isn't blowing dust directly into the open cabin while you work.

03

Chemical Dilution

Prepare your APC or degreaser in a spray bottle. For Australian summer conditions, use a slightly weaker dilution (1:15) if the surface is hot to prevent drying. Fill a secondary 'rinse' bucket with clean water and a dedicated wash mitt or small sponge to neutralise chemicals.

04

Interior Protection

Drape a clean, dry microfibre towel over the interior door cards and the edge of the seats. This prevents overspray from degreasers or dirty runoff from staining leather, fabric, or Alcantara surfaces during the agitation process.

04

Detailed Cleaning and Protection Workflow

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01

Dry Debris Removal

Before introducing liquids, use a vacuum with a crevice tool or a soft-bristle brush to remove loose red dust, leaves, and insect remains. This prevents the formation of 'mud' in the hinge pockets, making the subsequent wet-cleaning steps significantly more efficient and less messy.

02

Sectional Chemical Application

Work one door at a time. Spray your APC/Degreaser starting from the top of the A-pillar jamb and working down to the sill. Allow the product to dwell for 60-90 seconds, but do not let it dry. In high heat, mist the area with a fine water spray to keep the chemicals active.

03

Agitation of Painted Surfaces

Using a soft detailing brush, work the APC into the painted sections of the jamb. Use circular motions to lift bonded film. Pay close attention to the 'striker plate' (the metal loop the door latches onto) and the rubber weatherstrip channels where salt and dust accumulate.

04

Mechanical Hinge Degreasing

Switch to a stiffer boar's hair brush for the hinges and door checks. These areas often have thick, old grease. Agitate thoroughly to break down the black sludge. If the grease is particularly stubborn, a dedicated citrus-based tar and glue remover may be required.

05

Controlled Rinsing

Rinse the area using a low-pressure stream of water or a damp microfibre towel. If using a pressure washer, stand back 1 metre and use a wide fan pattern. Aim the water outwards, away from the interior, focusing on flushing the grime down the sills and out of the bottom of the door.

06

Mechanical Decontamination (Claying)

Feel the painted surface of the jamb. If it feels gritty, use a small piece of fine clay with soapy water as lubricant. This removes embedded metallic particles and 'fallout' which is common near industrial areas or railways. This ensures the protection bond is permanent.

07

Thorough Drying

Dry the jambs using a dedicated 'dirty' microfibre or a sidekick blower. Ensure you remove all water from the hinge recesses and the bottom drain holes of the door. Trapped water in these holes is the primary cause of 'door skin rot' in coastal environments.

08

Surface Preparation (IPA Wipe)

Wipe all painted surfaces with a 50% Isopropyl Alcohol solution. This removes any remaining surfactant film from the APC or oils from the degreaser. A 'squeaky clean' surface is mandatory for the ceramic sealant to bond correctly to the paint.

09

Application of Protection

Apply a high-quality spray sealant or ceramic coating to the painted jambs. Use a small microfibre applicator pad. This creates a hydrophobic barrier that prevents red dust from staining the paint and allows future cleaning to be done with just a damp cloth.

10

Weatherstrip Conditioning

Apply a water-based rubber protectant to the door seals. This prevents the rubber from drying out and cracking in the 40°C+ heat and ensures a tight seal against dust and wind noise. Avoid silicone-based products which can attract more dust.

11

Re-lubrication of Hinges

Now that the hinges are clean, you must replace the lubrication. Apply a small amount of white lithium grease or a dry PTFE spray to the pivot points. Cycle the door several times to distribute the lubricant, then wipe away any excess to prevent it from catching dust.

12

Final Inspection

Close the door and check for any 'run-off' that may have leaked onto the exterior panels. Wipe the exterior paintwork with a quick detailer to ensure no chemical streaks remain, especially on dark-coloured vehicles which show spotting easily.

Avoid High-Pressure Water Near Electronics

Never aim a high-pressure washer directly at the wiring loom bellows (the rubber tube between the door and the body). High pressure can force water past the seals into the cabin or into electrical connectors, leading to short circuits, 'ghost' electrical faults, or airbag sensor errors which are costly to diagnose and repair.

Beware of Chemical Flash-Drying

In Australian summer conditions, chemicals can dry on the surface in seconds. If an alkaline degreaser dries on the thin clear coat of a door jamb, it can cause permanent white staining or 'chemical burning'. Always work on cool panels and never detail door jambs in direct sunlight.

Do Not Degrease Without Re-lubricating

Removing all grease from the hinges and door checks without reapplying a lubricant will lead to metal-on-metal friction. Over time, this causes the door to 'creak' or 'pop' and can eventually lead to the failure of the door check strap or hinge pins. Always finish with a fresh application of grease.

The Steam Advantage

Professional detailers in Australia often use steam cleaners for door jambs. Steam uses very little water, making it safer for interiors, and the heat easily melts factory grease and red dust without needing harsh chemicals. It also sanitises the area, which is great for used car purchases.

Managing Red Dust Ingress

If you frequently drive in the Outback, apply a dedicated ceramic coating to the jambs. The 'self-cleaning' properties of ceramic mean that red dust cannot 'bite' into the paint. A simple blast of air or a light wipe will remove dust that would otherwise require heavy scrubbing.

Cotton Bud Precision

For the ultimate show-car finish, use cotton buds (Q-tips) to reach the tiny crevices around the door latch and the hinge bolts. This removes the 'black ring' of grime that brushes often miss, providing a truly professional result.

05

Long-Term Maintenance and Aftercare

Once your door jambs are professionally detailed and protected, maintenance becomes significantly easier. In the Australian climate, you should aim to wipe down your door jambs every 2-4 weeks using a damp microfibre towel or a dedicated quick detailer. This prevents the buildup of salt and dust before they can bond to the surface. If you have applied a ceramic-based sealant, the hydrophobic properties should last 6-12 months depending on your environment. You will know it is time to retreat the area when water stops 'beading' on the jamb surfaces or when dust becomes harder to wipe away. Re-lubricating the hinges should be an annual task, ideally performed after the wet season to ensure any moisture that entered the hinge assembly is displaced by fresh grease. Consistent care in these areas prevents the 'crusty' look common in older Australian vehicles and ensures the doors operate with a factory-smooth feel for the life of the car.

06

Troubleshooting Common Issues

The red dust has stained the paint orange; how do I fix it?
Red dust contains iron oxides that can 'stain' the clear coat. If a standard wash doesn't work, use an iron-remover spray (e.g., CarPro IronX). If staining persists, a light hand-polish with a microfibre applicator and a fine finishing polish will be required to mechanically remove the stained layer of paint.
I have white streaks on my black plastic trim after cleaning.
This is usually dried APC residue. Re-clean the area with a dedicated plastic cleaner and a soft brush. Once dry, apply a high-quality trim restorer. To prevent this, always ensure you rinse the APC thoroughly and don't let it dry on the surface.
The door is creaking even though I cleaned the hinges.
You likely removed the lubricant but didn't replace it effectively. Ensure you are using a 'creeping' lubricant like a sprayable white lithium grease that can penetrate into the hinge pin, rather than just sitting on the outside. Cycle the door 10-15 times to work the grease in.
How do I remove 'tea staining' (brown spots) in coastal areas?
Tea staining is the beginning of surface rust. Use a very fine grade of steel wool (0000 grade) with a metal polish if it's on a chrome/metal part, or a medium-grade clay bar if it's on the paint. Immediately seal the area with a ceramic coating to prevent oxygen and salt from reaching the metal again.

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