The Complete Guide to Clay Bar Treatment

Wash the vehicle using the two-bucket method to remove all loose dirt, road film, and dust. Pay extra attention to the lower sills and wheel arches where red dust and road tar accumulate. Rinse the car thoroughly and dry it completely using a large microfibre drying towel. Claying a dirty car will cause 'marring' (fine scratches) as you drag loose dirt across the surface.

Never clay a car in direct sunlight, especially during summer. The metal surface temperature can exceed 70°C, causing the lubricant to evaporate instantly. This leads to the clay sticking and smearing onto the paint. Work in a garage or under a carport. If working outside, do it very early in the morning before the sun has strength.

Place your hand inside a clean plastic sandwich bag and lightly run your fingertips over the dry paintwork. The thin plastic amplifies the sensation of grit. If the surface feels bumpy or like sandpaper through the bag, it needs claying. This helps you identify which areas (usually horizontal surfaces like the bonnet and roof) need the most work.

Take your 100g-200g clay bar and cut it into 3 or 4 smaller pieces. This is a safety measure; if you drop a piece, you only lose a fraction of your kit rather than the whole bar. Take one piece and knead it in your hands until it becomes warm and pliable, then flatten it into a disc about 5cm wide.

Work in small sections, approximately 40cm x 40cm. Generously spray your clay lubricant over the section. You cannot use too much lubricant; the goal is to create a slippery barrier so the clay glides over the paint rather than grabbing it. If the area starts to dry, spray more immediately.

Place the flattened clay disc on the lubricated surface. Using only two fingers, glide the clay back and forth in straight, overlapping lines (horizontal then vertical). Do not use circular motions. Use very light pressure; let the clay do the work of 'catching' the contaminants.

As you move the clay, you will initially hear a 'hissing' or scratching sound. This is the sound of the clay hitting the contaminants. As the section becomes clean, the clay will glide silently and smoothly. Once the resistance disappears, the section is done.

After every section, look at the face of the clay. You will see brown, grey, or red streaks—this is the dirt you've pulled out of the paint. In dusty regions, the clay will turn red very quickly. This is a visual confirmation that the process is working.

Once the clay face looks dirty, fold it in half so the dirt is trapped inside, and knead it back into a flat, clean disc. Always ensure you are working with a fresh, clean surface of clay. Once the piece of clay is dirty all the way through and cannot be kneaded to a clean face, discard it and use a new piece.

Use a clean microfibre towel to wipe the section you just finished. Use light pressure and a 'buffing' motion. This prevents the lubricant from drying and leaving streaks or spots, which can be difficult to remove later in the heat.

Perform the plastic bag test again on the finished section. It should now feel perfectly smooth. If you still feel bumps, re-lubricate and repeat the process. Beginners often rush; taking an extra 2 minutes per panel ensures a professional result.

Clay bars aren't just for paint. You can use the same technique on your windscreen and headlights to remove stubborn bug guts and water spots. This significantly improves wiper blade performance and light clarity. Avoid using clay on textured plastic trim, as it will leave white residue.

Save the bottom 20cm of the car (the side skirts) for last. These areas contain the heaviest grit and tar. Using your clay here will contaminate it quickly, so it’s best to use a piece of clay that is nearing the end of its life.

Once the whole car is finished, give it a quick rinse with plain water to remove any remaining lubricant residue. Dry the car thoroughly. Your paint is now 'naked'—all previous waxes have been stripped away, and the pores are open.